tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-40514753608438512102024-03-06T08:26:34.738+01:00Pastis & Peanut Butterand other tales from a Franco-American pantryAnniehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02009525176773786683noreply@blogger.comBlogger21125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4051475360843851210.post-60188380832805352242010-07-22T10:31:00.010+02:002010-07-22T18:00:06.145+02:00Ratatouille Burgers<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeDeNEnVsPcX8MWh2vy4PmR85wApz7Njp_PHUeMdSs6Cu7txqwCk17UGY3YS5QytBytr2VCkOijzebhKjVsJTmhxU_uvG9SCIO_nLfxDPHESSUiSSN4gs_Sd4V3g82JkbHzggiypZRFp0/s1600/IMG_2245.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeDeNEnVsPcX8MWh2vy4PmR85wApz7Njp_PHUeMdSs6Cu7txqwCk17UGY3YS5QytBytr2VCkOijzebhKjVsJTmhxU_uvG9SCIO_nLfxDPHESSUiSSN4gs_Sd4V3g82JkbHzggiypZRFp0/s400/IMG_2245.JPG" width="400" /></a></span></span></div><div align="JUSTIFY" style="font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">Q: How can you make a sworn carnivore squeal with delight over vegetables?</span></span></span></div><br />
<div align="JUSTIFY" style="font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">A: Mix them with beef!</span></span></span></div><br />
<div align="JUSTIFY" style="font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">We found ourselves with a zucchini, half an eggplant, a bell pepper, onions, garlic, and a small bunch of tomatoes. There was no getting around a batch of </span></span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">ratatouille</span></span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">. Which is a dish I love, so I wasn't too upset about it. So I stewed it up in a big pot. Which reminds me that interestingly, there are actually two schools of thought regarding ratatouille. The first insists that the vegetables must be cooked separately and then combined at the end. The second goes for communal cooking of the ingredients. Both camps are extremely adamant about the fact that it's only true ratatouille if it's made by their method. I actually have no opinion on the issue, but I usually cook everything together because it minimizes dishes. Why dirty 5-6 pots... when I can just use one...?</span></span></span></div><br />
<div align="JUSTIFY" style="font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">It's really a handy dish. You only one pot needed to make it, it's awfully flexible (you can adjust proportions of vegetables, seasonings, cooking times), and the </span></span><a href="http://www.latartinegourmande.com/2010/07/14/clafoutis-de-ratatouille-bastille-day-boston-globe/"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">possibilities</span></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"> of what to do with it are endless.</span></span></span></div><br />
<span style="color: black;"><a name='more'></a></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0iDuXoyEvyc4UgkgON4nQOlyM-ERm9FPJQKXVaeiJeIBmKjwq2MklGnYcqUMQ0bUbBFmePnp3u1UrJwZ4n0ZnmGf9ToNjTs_rZeOJeOc2vyNerof0n1fVKKhM8xXyF90oM7koboaL0y8/s1600/IMG_2223.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0iDuXoyEvyc4UgkgON4nQOlyM-ERm9FPJQKXVaeiJeIBmKjwq2MklGnYcqUMQ0bUbBFmePnp3u1UrJwZ4n0ZnmGf9ToNjTs_rZeOJeOc2vyNerof0n1fVKKhM8xXyF90oM7koboaL0y8/s400/IMG_2223.JPG" width="400" /></span></span></a></div><br />
<div align="JUSTIFY" style="font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">I've seen recipes for ratatouille involving additions like tomato paste or broth, but I stick to the simpler olive oil, salt, and pepper. I also generally season with </span></span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">Herbes de Provence</span></span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">, since I have a really fragrant little sachet of them that I bought at the farmer's market (contents are variable, but mine are a mix of rosemary, thyme, basil, marjoram, oregano, tarragon, chervil, and lovage... don't you think "lovage" is the best-named spice?). But did you know that "Herbes de Provence" is a term and </span></span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">commercial concept coined during the 1970s</span></span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">?? I feel duped. </span></span><i><b><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Cuisiniere-Provencale-J-B-Reboul/dp/2903963053/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1279786002&sr=8-1"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">La Cusinière Provençale</span></span></a></b></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">,</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"> a cookbook originally published in 1897 and our reference for all things Provence around here, calls for </span></span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">nutmeg</span></span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"> to season ratatouille. Any </span></span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">fresh herb</span></span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"> you have lying around would also be great. Or you could take a nod from </span></span><b><i><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pip%C3%A9rade"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">Pipérade</span></span></a></i></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">, and season with a healthy dose of </span></span><b><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">Piment d'Espelette</span></span></i></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"> </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">(Basque hot red pepper). I say, do what you feel.</span></span></span></div><div align="JUSTIFY" style="font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><br />
<div align="JUSTIFY" style="font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">After making ratatouille, you will be delighted to find, as I mentioned, that it has many uses. One of which is over bulgar with a poached egg.</span></span></span></div><div align="JUSTIFY" style="font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"> </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiauIVwLd-bdUBlpGwkxzMRqGwOt6H9eqm0JrwnxLm4Deeqa-mEkFSq-gEahraJQ7nbJBHNq1m_Z7am1Hzp8iEdGo9dDZr2sIkXKjvdyqIRlPiE_6PEKRbLdautfnCLTPHT-qy88Ouwa70/s1600/IMG_2225.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiauIVwLd-bdUBlpGwkxzMRqGwOt6H9eqm0JrwnxLm4Deeqa-mEkFSq-gEahraJQ7nbJBHNq1m_Z7am1Hzp8iEdGo9dDZr2sIkXKjvdyqIRlPiE_6PEKRbLdautfnCLTPHT-qy88Ouwa70/s400/IMG_2225.JPG" width="400" /></a></span></span></div><div align="JUSTIFY" style="font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">Another of which is mixing it in your burgers. Make no mistake, that's the real point of this blog post.</span></span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8Op1BMNqu4XN2hWFhpWRrO36PvImi6M_vdYwhqJMunDkWEJHUavbIRTyzs4dFoXvFJZypyBlyQN-2vJwlSNXuUVmoz0pg47z1RRGj0WvOgk3qT3XS1Vv7xbStrv3pmHD1r9CTZEKcIOU/s1600/IMG_2239.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8Op1BMNqu4XN2hWFhpWRrO36PvImi6M_vdYwhqJMunDkWEJHUavbIRTyzs4dFoXvFJZypyBlyQN-2vJwlSNXuUVmoz0pg47z1RRGj0WvOgk3qT3XS1Vv7xbStrv3pmHD1r9CTZEKcIOU/s400/IMG_2239.JPG" width="400" /></a></span></span></div><div align="JUSTIFY" style="font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">I must say, the result was delicious. The burgers were incredibly juicy and flavorful. Tart, sweet, salty, meaty, herbaceous... both rich and fresh at the same time. We ate them on buns with some warm goat cheese, lettuce, and a little bit of mustard, with a small pile of tiny little roasted potatoes that I'd picked up recently. Sides of roasted Fingerlings and a simple green salad would also be just perfect. Mmm.</span></span></span></div><br />
<div align="JUSTIFY" style="font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">I'm a big ratatouille fan, and I'm a big burger fan (or I have been since I stopped being a vegetarian 3 years ago and learned of the magic of a juicy rare burger...), and I'm still a bit starry-eyed over the combination of the two.</span></span></span></div><br />
<div align="JUSTIFY" style="font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">Mmm.</span></span></span></div><br />
<div align="JUSTIFY" style="font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">So make this. Soon. I don't think you'll be sad about it.</span></span></span></div><br />
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<div align="JUSTIFY" style="font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: black;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">Ratatouille Burgers</span></span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">, loosely based on </span></span><a href="http://www.foodandwine.com/recipes/ratatouille-burgers"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">this</span></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"> </span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">Food and Wine</span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"> recipe, serves 6</span></span></span></div><div align="JUSTIFY" style="font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><br />
</span></span></div><div align="JUSTIFY" style="font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">.65 kilos / about 1.5 pounds ground beef</span></span></span></div><div align="JUSTIFY" style="font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">1 piece of dry toast, crumbled into very small bits</span></span></span></div><div align="JUSTIFY" style="font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">1 egg</span></span></span></div><div align="JUSTIFY" style="font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">5 very generous tablespoonfuls of ratatouille</span></span></span></div><div align="JUSTIFY" style="font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">1-2 dashes Worcestershire sauce</span></span></span></div><div align="JUSTIFY" style="font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">3/4 teaspoon fine salt</span></span></span></div><div align="JUSTIFY" style="font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">2 dashes Cayenne pepper</span></span></span></div><div align="JUSTIFY" style="font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><br />
</span></span></div><div align="JUSTIFY" style="font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">Combine all ingredients in a large bowl. Using your hands, work the other ingredients into the ground beef by kneading and squashing quite a bit. When everything looks evenly incorporated, form the mixture into six patties.</span></span></span></div><div align="JUSTIFY" style="font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><br />
</span></span></div><div align="JUSTIFY" style="font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">Melt some butter in a skillet on medium-high heat. When it starts to foam up, add the patties. Allow to brown, then flip. Lower the heat to medium-low and cook to desired doneness.</span></span></span></div><div align="JUSTIFY" style="font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><br />
</span></span></div><div align="JUSTIFY" style="font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: black;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">Ratatouille Niçoise</span></span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">, translated from </span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">La Cuisinière Provençale</span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"> by J.-B. Reboul (a book which rarely gives quantities or measurements, hence the lack thereof below)</span></span></span></div><div align="JUSTIFY" style="font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><br />
</span></span></div><div align="JUSTIFY" style="font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">Eggplants</span></span></span></div><div align="JUSTIFY" style="font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">Zucchini</span></span></span></div><div align="JUSTIFY" style="font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">Red and green bell peppers</span></span></span></div><div align="JUSTIFY" style="font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">Onion</span></span></span></div><div align="JUSTIFY" style="font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">Garlic</span></span></span></div><div align="JUSTIFY" style="font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">Tomatoes</span></span></span></div><div align="JUSTIFY" style="font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">Oil</span></span></span></div><div align="JUSTIFY" style="font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">Salt, Pepper</span></span></span></div><div align="JUSTIFY" style="font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">Grated Nutmeg</span></span></span></div><div align="JUSTIFY" style="font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><br />
</span></span></div><div align="JUSTIFY" style="font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">Cut up eggplants and zucchini after peeling them. Remove the seeds from a few red and green peppers. Put everything in a large saucepan where you will have sweated in 2 or 3 spoonfuls of oil onion and 3 cloves of minced garlic. Add a few roughly diced tomatoes. Allow to cook on low heat adding oil and some black olives (optional). Season with salt, pepper, and a dash of grated nutmeg.</span></span></span></div><div align="JUSTIFY" style="font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><br />
</span></span></div><div align="JUSTIFY" style="font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">Served hot, or chilled, this is a very pleasant summer dish.</span></span></span></div><br />
</div>Anniehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02009525176773786683noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4051475360843851210.post-65608747881923720412010-07-08T00:52:00.006+02:002010-07-08T01:19:27.559+02:00Sushi Night: So Fun, No Fish<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg424CIs16cfsVlp1aqYa1sOVcvpxXgaW1yBm-Gnqz_BlJenf-jgpLHr7lxPOkc7SaiqhNqpddHHXuhrHRbMtoaEGW85qM8MKBhYMMsgIilzR4E6UiYSEga9FO7QvEDbDplRbP0uL2YQ6U/s1600/IMG_1961.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg424CIs16cfsVlp1aqYa1sOVcvpxXgaW1yBm-Gnqz_BlJenf-jgpLHr7lxPOkc7SaiqhNqpddHHXuhrHRbMtoaEGW85qM8MKBhYMMsgIilzR4E6UiYSEga9FO7QvEDbDplRbP0uL2YQ6U/s400/IMG_1961.JPG" width="400" /></a></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">There's something so inviting about sushi. Perfect little bundles, in a variety of colors and flavors. That soft, dense sticky rice texture, the sweet-saltiness, the burn of wasabi, the crunch of pickled ginger...</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">But then there are a couple of outright uninviting aspects of sushi: first, it's not cheap. Second, there's an element of </span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">déjà vu</span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> after a while, because pretty much every Parisian sushi restaurant is exactly like every other one. And not only that, they don't give much of a crap about the whole </span><a href="http://www.nytimes.com/2010/06/24/us/24fish.html?scp=1&sq=bluefin&st=cse"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">endangerment of Bluefin Tuna thing</span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">. I kind of do, so that kind of kills my buzz.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">So I tried making sushi at home. Sure, it was easy enough to make some (occasionally wonky) cucumber and avocado rolls, but that's not novel for very long, either. I have to admit I love fish. So I made fish sushi at home, but felt a little awkward about eating raw fish whose path to my plate was completely mysterious to me, plus I didn't save all that much money, on top of it. So what was to be done?</span></div><br />
<div style="text-align: justify;"><a href="http://markbittman.com/"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Mark Bittman</span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">, the New York Times food writer, finally had </span><a href="http://www.nytimes.com/2010/05/05/dining/05mini.html?_r=1&ref=dining"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">an answer</span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> for me. God bless that man.</span></div><a name='more'></a><br />
<div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">His take was that you can really make sushi with anything. The key is seasoning your rice well with salt, sugar, and vinegar, and that gives you this really balanced base upon which pretty much anything can be eaten. After that, your imagination is the limit.</span></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitE8g78OLFq0XcqY48iiqyr27Zcq1NmkObZx6JkCFh9a_lFlCLuIDLtfk-sJQ69d9XkldaJc5WShAx_Hfl5A2kB_uKRq_Jby4JF-gowTQse05HyBK2MMTU1oepwrqAFDZBogR22VCg-bM/s1600/IMG_1963.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitE8g78OLFq0XcqY48iiqyr27Zcq1NmkObZx6JkCFh9a_lFlCLuIDLtfk-sJQ69d9XkldaJc5WShAx_Hfl5A2kB_uKRq_Jby4JF-gowTQse05HyBK2MMTU1oepwrqAFDZBogR22VCg-bM/s400/IMG_1963.JPG" width="400" /></span></a></div><br />
<div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">I planned with some good friends to have a sushi night sans fish. Then I pickled my own ginger in anticipation. That's how excited I was! We convened with vegetables, fruits, even some ham, and the sushification process began.</span></div><br />
<div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">After lots of chopping, the sacrifice of Mat's hands to the beetroots, Rachel's masterful shocking of the peas in cold water after cooking (they were really shocked), and lots of rice-making and vinegar measuring and wasabi-mixing, we were ready for action.</span></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2OPlKkTjweorhomWIkCQK7EmLoSSM-J91UFxRlB0T1q-9mA6ONeYptf7Gq6w9I9hc54vHjC888cnRgsMiCvP0aqBM-iBUqNMEuZj-ZD2-w_CY3fzufqdhYwg3WQ2p_6NuyXjuj0Fupqg/s1600/IMG_1966.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2OPlKkTjweorhomWIkCQK7EmLoSSM-J91UFxRlB0T1q-9mA6ONeYptf7Gq6w9I9hc54vHjC888cnRgsMiCvP0aqBM-iBUqNMEuZj-ZD2-w_CY3fzufqdhYwg3WQ2p_6NuyXjuj0Fupqg/s400/IMG_1966.JPG" width="400" /></span></a></div><br />
<div style="text-align: center;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Avocado Sushi</span></b></div><div style="text-align: center;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Roasted Red Pepper Sushi</span></b></div><div style="text-align: center;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Beet Sushi</span></b></div><div style="text-align: center;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Nori</span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">*</span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> Omelette Sushi</span></b></div><div style="text-align: center;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Green Pea Maki</span></b></div><div style="text-align: center;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Radish Sprout Maki</span></b></div><div style="text-align: center;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Mango Sushi</span></b></div><div style="text-align: center;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Jambon de Bayonne</span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">**</span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> Sushi</span></b></div><br />
<div style="text-align: justify;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">*Nori = the sheets of dried seaweed used to make maki rolls</span></i></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">**Jambon de Bayonne = a kind of raw aged ham, like Prosciutto, only Frencher</span></i></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Everything was great. I forgot to bring over my chopsticks, though, so we ate with our fingers. That was actually kind of fun, too.</span></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0Rkih2kq9ivHjwyI00rG9110wUO5P0tI0brSFCBArsiMNf0o-cVAdJ5AQ6RjY9SbKdoyRMdl1UiolYgyNa0C_9mMD3NpLKFzom4J0TO59rBBI6GpLJ9ZY3BvoxgVywqlioIDqOSwi4z0/s1600/IMG_1971.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0Rkih2kq9ivHjwyI00rG9110wUO5P0tI0brSFCBArsiMNf0o-cVAdJ5AQ6RjY9SbKdoyRMdl1UiolYgyNa0C_9mMD3NpLKFzom4J0TO59rBBI6GpLJ9ZY3BvoxgVywqlioIDqOSwi4z0/s400/IMG_1971.JPG" width="400" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">My favorites of the bunch were probably the Green Pea Maki, which went fantastically with wasabi, the Beet Sushi, which was particularly tasty with the pickled ginger, the Mango Sushi, which went surprisingly well with soy sauce for the whole salty-sweet thing, and the Jambon de Bayonne, whose delicate texture was reminiscent of fish. But overall, all the sushis were winners and we ended the night with full bellies. I highly recommend this as an evening with friends, as the vegetable cutting and dreaming up of possible sushis are activities best shared with others, and the whole process makes for a lovely evening. It really is just as exciting as fish sushi (and more creative), plus you can spend all the extra cash you saved on booze!</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Pickled Ginger</span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">, </span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">makes about 2 cups</span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">, modified from </span><a href="http://www.ehow.com/how_4597265_pickle-ginger.html"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">this</span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> recipe at eHow.com</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhH9ExI1RlDm5tw837xQ2QA7sXfWm9LqGsbuqLK7COjAIclqoJDzstmt2XFD5TWXdRCVUCvxvw6ig-YZOm-IL_NrahR68pbyUGr02xGlvMu1NAjSg5zYmQUfe-1O53gQo3kunpGgGxg294/s1600/IMG_1965.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhH9ExI1RlDm5tw837xQ2QA7sXfWm9LqGsbuqLK7COjAIclqoJDzstmt2XFD5TWXdRCVUCvxvw6ig-YZOm-IL_NrahR68pbyUGr02xGlvMu1NAjSg5zYmQUfe-1O53gQo3kunpGgGxg294/s400/IMG_1965.JPG" width="400" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1 rather large ginger root</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1 tablespoon course salt</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">3 cups rice vinegar</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">2 cups white sugar</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">5-6 whole peppercorns (I used pink, the original recipe called for black) - optional</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">5-6 whole cloves - optional</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Peel the ginger, and slice into very thin slices, using either a mandolin or a very sharp knife. Cover the slices with ice water in a large bowl and allow to sit for one hour. Drain and dry thoroughly (a salad spinner works well).</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Combine vinegar, sugar, peppercorns, and cloves in a saucepan and bring to a boil. Simmer for five minutes, and meanwhile try to avoid getting a big whiff, as it will hurt your nose. After simmering, pour the hot mixture over the ginger and store in a covered container (a glass jar works well) in the fridge.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Note: If you can use very young ginger, it will apparently turn pink after pickling. Older ginger, like I used, will stay beige, but if you want it pink, you can always boil some beet in your vinegar mixture.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Sushi Rice</span></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Sticky rice</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Water</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Sake (or similar rice alcohol)</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Rice vinegar</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Salt</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">White sugar</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Cook the rice according to package directions, adding about 1.5 times as much water as rice. If possible, substitute some of the water for sake, or another similar rice alcohol (I used Korean soju and it worked great). When the water has been absorbed, cut the heat but keep the rice covered, allowing it to continue cooking with steam. After about 15-20 minutes, concoct a mixture of vinegar, salt, and sugar, and mix this gently in with the rice, being careful not to break it (Mark Bittman suggests thinking of it as folding egg whites into batter), in a proportion of 1/2 cup awasezu (the name of the vinegar mixture) for every 2 cups cooked rice.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Tip: You can buy special plastic trays to help you mold the rice into the oblong sushi shape you get in restaurants, or you can just use ice trays to help you get a regular shape, even if it's not exactly the same. Get the rice out by banging the ice tray on the table.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">For the maki, I find it easiest to use my fingers to spread a thin layer of rice over the nori, leaving 1/4 - 1/2 inch rice-less on on side, to seal the roll. Put a thin column of filling parallel to the rice-less strip but on the opposite side of the sheet of nori, then start rolling on that side. Cut with the sharpest knife you've got.</span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKAelEJ1-laC-TT1o7N-qsY_MkjjFX2QFbwBdT188DYfNsL4DZwWfnqQOA1l8QqEBf1Bift-esgZlHTYT-nTGNiBxlBRZVdaVigDj7icQ9uwM1pHuZoPe3h40merxJTq3fPDEP1wgCsTI/s1600/IMG_1989.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKAelEJ1-laC-TT1o7N-qsY_MkjjFX2QFbwBdT188DYfNsL4DZwWfnqQOA1l8QqEBf1Bift-esgZlHTYT-nTGNiBxlBRZVdaVigDj7icQ9uwM1pHuZoPe3h40merxJTq3fPDEP1wgCsTI/s400/IMG_1989.JPG" width="400" /></span></a></div>Anniehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02009525176773786683noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4051475360843851210.post-49055724545402632902010-07-06T14:08:00.004+02:002010-07-06T21:15:33.297+02:00Le 4th of July<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrfBjWXh1oejegVp8lCiJukkpEOkT2gpL1l98IZk8PYqIwzcbI_XSDKWlyLt-wTxg56IAmqvNns56rhwnFBq5XJbYld7r1uscj6tN9ebDc7tksaDpF4grI6Jh9MJavu200e6LhIMufTGE/s1600/IMG_2036.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrfBjWXh1oejegVp8lCiJukkpEOkT2gpL1l98IZk8PYqIwzcbI_XSDKWlyLt-wTxg56IAmqvNns56rhwnFBq5XJbYld7r1uscj6tN9ebDc7tksaDpF4grI6Jh9MJavu200e6LhIMufTGE/s400/IMG_2036.JPG" width="400" /></span></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">I'm often asked by French friends what exactly constitutes </span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">traditional American food</span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">. Everybody knows hamburgers, hot dogs, and Coca-Cola, but the French, whose culinary tradition is quite varied and quite important, seem to want to believe that there's more to American fare than MacDo might have them believe.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">I consider myself a defender of the American culinary heritage to those who might deny its existence or its legitimacy, even if it can be a bit unclear to me, too, exactly what it is. I guess in the U.S. we're at a point of trying to figure out what exactly American Cuisine could be. It's partly in this exciting stage of exploration and transition, but we draw so heavily from other, more established culinary traditions (read: the French), some people have trouble believing that some of these things could really be called American Food (read: the French). </span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">So American Food remains, in the eyes of many, things like burgers and Coca-Cola, because those are the most obvious answers; the things that are really </span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">ours</span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">. In American restaurants in Paris, they basically serve dressed-up versions of what you can get at McDonald's (burgers, fries, hot dogs, chicken wings), which only reinforces this perception. The one notable exception to the rule was </span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Chez Haynes</span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">, who served </span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">soul food</span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> from 1949 to 2009 to a Parisian clientele, but sadly 2009 was last year, and I never got to go, much less drag my French pals.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">So it's up to me to whip up what traditional American food I know of. I've been developing my Chicken 'n' Dumplin's skills. I'm an old hat at cornbread. I've been working on perfecting my buttermilk biscuit. Next on the list is the yeast roll. (Note: When I visited my family in April in the United States, during Easter lunch at my grandmother's I downed not one not two but count 'em SIX of her yeast rolls, yes thank you, I missed them that much). But this 4th of July, seeing it as the occasion to do so, I pulled out the big guns.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Pulled Pork</span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">. North Carolina-style. </span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Baked Beans</span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">, </span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Cole Slaw</span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">, </span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Home Fries</span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">. </span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Buttermilk Pie</span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"></div><a name='more'></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv0iH1dSzpUIOTSIIFGekE0s6KrdpvgU2QwuqDsXNuEgOrnKsXyYGEt_vmTPiMK7mxAi8dixSfa-YJYOvJBdAVbFYHrb9YGoh_ZlBnB2AkraOSfSwIvnDRfioiJVetyxAWk9nsrMkBTIo/s1600/IMG_2038.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv0iH1dSzpUIOTSIIFGekE0s6KrdpvgU2QwuqDsXNuEgOrnKsXyYGEt_vmTPiMK7mxAi8dixSfa-YJYOvJBdAVbFYHrb9YGoh_ZlBnB2AkraOSfSwIvnDRfioiJVetyxAWk9nsrMkBTIo/s400/IMG_2038.JPG" width="400" /></span></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">[Note: I tried to serve Corn on the Cob, but they don't sell that at my farmer's market. *Culture shock*]</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">You may be aware of the fact that typically, pulled pork requires smoke. And if you know anything about my life in our tiny Parisian apartment, you know that the only thing I have that produces smoke is a Marlboro-puffing Frenchman, but you can't really cook pork with one of those. So, we used a toaster oven. That's right kids, we made pulled pork in a toaster oven.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">After buying 3 kilos (about 6.6 pounds!!!!) of pork shoulder, we had to clear out the fridge in order to fit it in to marinate all day. Luckily, we were behind on grocery shopping, and while we were missing our usual sundry grocery items, we were able to successfully marinate our 3-kilo pork shoulder for 8 hours. Then, we rubbed in in spices (including smoked hot paprika to replace some of that smokiness we would be missing), and we cooked it all night. And let me tell you, it took up the whole oven.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">The next morning, the apartment smelled great: slow-cooked pork, smoky spices. Our little oven kept chugging along, baking our beans and our buttermilk pie. Or fermented milk pie, rather, as fermented milk is actually findable in Paris and provides that same tartness. We busily chopped cabbage, fried potatoes, and soon, our friends had arrived. </span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">You guys sure know how to do barbecue over there, a French friend said, his mouth full of sandwich.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">I felt nearly patriotic.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZt6IpOcUP73cn4w3rf-2691t03WogTM68pDIcgvSWd-MYVAEyl0Oy9GLOqdi5LInmPW9lFPjxg20zOSTbUuQnS3Ih5YHU_AW_bXkErPuvg0C5SD_j6nbA5F77sFQsAGB-Z5G7SyqNSXw/s1600/IMG_2046.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZt6IpOcUP73cn4w3rf-2691t03WogTM68pDIcgvSWd-MYVAEyl0Oy9GLOqdi5LInmPW9lFPjxg20zOSTbUuQnS3Ih5YHU_AW_bXkErPuvg0C5SD_j6nbA5F77sFQsAGB-Z5G7SyqNSXw/s400/IMG_2046.JPG" width="400" /></span></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
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</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Oven-Roasted Pulled Pork</span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">, </span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">serves about 10</span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">, found at </span><a href="http://kevinandamanda.com/recipes"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">kevinandamanda.com/recipes</span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> and ever-so-slightly modified</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">About 3 kilos / 6.6 pounds pork shoulder</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Dry Rub</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1 tablespoon ground cumin</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1 tablespoon garlic powder</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1 tablespoon fine salt</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1 tablespoon ground black pepper</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1 tablespoon mild (smoked) paprika</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1 tablespoon Pimentón (hot smoked paprika)</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1/2 cup brown sugar</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Brine Solution</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">2 quarts cold water</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1/2 cup salt</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1/2 cup brown sugar</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">3 tablespoons dry rub mixture</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">2-3 bay leaves</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Mix dry rub ingredients and set aside. Mix the salt into the cold water until dissolved. Then mix in the sugar and the 3 tabelespoons of dry rub (saving the rest for later), and add the bay leaves. Place the pork shoulder in a large container or plastic bag in which it can be completely submerged. Pour the brine solution over it, and store in the refrigerator. Leave it to marinate for at least 8 hours.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">When it's time to cook, preheat the oven to 225ºF / 110ºC. Take the pork out of the brine and dry it off with paper towels. Rub the shoulder all over with the remaining dry rub. If there is extra, you can use it later to mix in with the cooked meat, but I prefer to forego this step in favor of sauce.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">When the oven is hot, place the pork in the oven in a roasting pan or other large ovenproof dish. The pork will release some juice, so make sure the sides are fairly high. I put mine in a Dutch oven without the lid.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Cook the pork for about 12 hours (1.5-2 hours per pound). The internal temperature of the meat should reach 200ºF / 93ºC if you are using a meat thermometer. When it's done, you should let the meat rest and slowly cool. You can either turn off the oven and leave it in (covering it if there aren't enough juices in the pan), or remove it from the oven and put a lid on it to retain some warmth (this latter option works well if you went the Dutch oven route and need you oven for other cooking). After the resting period, pull the meat apart with a fork, removing the fat and bone. Serve with sauce or toss with any leftover dry rub.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">North Carolina Barbecue Sauce</span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">, </span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">makes about 16 sandwiches</span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">, slightly modified from </span><a href="http://allrecipes.com//Recipe/eastern-north-carolina-barbeque-sauce/Detail.aspx"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">this</span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> Allrecipes Recipe</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">2 cups cider vinegar</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1 tablespoon salt</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">3-4 tablespoons Pimentón (hot smoked paprika)</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1 teaspoon Tabasco</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1/4 cup brown sugar</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Mix all ingredients well, and allow to sit for at least 4 hours before serving. </span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Baked Beans</span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">, serves 10, found </span><a href="http://allrecipes.com//Recipe/boston-baked-beans/Detail.aspx"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">here</span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> at Allrecipes (quantities readjusted)</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">3 cups </span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">dry</span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> navy beans (or about 7.5 cups </span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">cooked</span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> navy beans)</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">3/4 pound bacon, in thick slices</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1-1/2 onion, finely diced</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1/4 cup molasses</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1 tablespoon salt</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1 teaspoon Dijon mustard</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">3/4 cup ketchup</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1 heaping tablespoon Worcestershire sauce</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1/4 cup and 2 tablespoons brown sugar</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Prepare beans as necessary. Reserve the cooking liquid if cooking them, and reserve the liquid from the can if using canned.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Put the molasses, salt, pepper, mustard, ketchup, Worcestershire sauce, and brown sugar in a saucepan and bring to a boil. While this is heating, arrange the beans in layers in an ovenproof dish, alternating with layers of onion and bacon. When the sauce has come to a boil, pour it over the beans, onion, and bacon. Add enough bean liquid to cover the beans. Cover the dish with a lid or with foil.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Bake in a 325ºF / 165ºC oven for 3 to 4 hours. Uncover about halfway through the cooking time, adding more liquid if beans start to dry.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Cole Slaw</span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">, </span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">serves 10+</span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">, from </span><a href="http://smittenkitchen.com/2006/11/not-your-mamas-coleslaw/"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Smitten Kitchen</span></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1/2 small head green cabbage</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1/2 small head red cabbage</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">4 carrots</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1 cup chopped fresh parsley</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">2 cups mayonnaise</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1/4 cup Dijon mustard</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">3 tablespoons whole grain mustard</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">2 tablespoons cider vinegar</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1 teaspoon celery seed</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1/2 teaspoon salt</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Cut the cabbage very finely with a knife, or use a food processor. Shred the carrots. Mix the cabbage and carrots with the parsley.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Mix the mayonnaise, mustards, vinegar, and seasonings in a bowl. Add to vegetable mixture as needed, tasting to get desired sauciness level. The leftover dressing keeps well.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Buttermilk / Fermented Milk Pie with Raspberries</span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">, ever-so-slightly modified from </span><a href="http://simplyrecipes.com/recipes/fourth_of_july_buttermilk_pie/"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Simply Recipes</span></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">4 eggs</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1 cup white sugar</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1 teaspoon lemon zest</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1 tablespoon flour</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1/4 cup melted butter</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1 cup buttermilk / fermented milk</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1 teaspoon vanilla extract</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1 9-inch unbaked pie crust</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1 to 1-1/2 cup fresh raspberries</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Mix eggs with sugar until creamy and well-combined. Add zest and flour, mixing well. Stir in the butter, buttermilk/fermented milk, and vanilla.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Pour mixture into pie crust and bake at 325ºF / 165ºC for 35 minutes, then sprinkle the fresh raspberries on top. Continue baking for another 15-20 minutes, until the center of the custard has just set and the crust has browned. Allow to cool, serve warm or chilled.</span></div>Anniehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02009525176773786683noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4051475360843851210.post-88714799713991212162010-07-01T09:41:00.001+02:002010-07-06T14:10:36.649+02:00Chilled Zucchini & Avocado Soup<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUT7RbDXY1vNhVTtmF8nuMxRNsjfnXD9K7G3obJATExTy05VTDisE_NTzS8C8h31p2qUtQLr5eyiFmgFyW-kTRSzo6h83_9MMm0oyT1tn25E8rjQ8V3QkuGLqIhfO8tpOeRVucWdfXf_I/s1600/Unknown-13.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUT7RbDXY1vNhVTtmF8nuMxRNsjfnXD9K7G3obJATExTy05VTDisE_NTzS8C8h31p2qUtQLr5eyiFmgFyW-kTRSzo6h83_9MMm0oyT1tn25E8rjQ8V3QkuGLqIhfO8tpOeRVucWdfXf_I/s400/Unknown-13.jpeg" width="400" /></span></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">I have to confess that I never really </span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">got</span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">cold soup</span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">. It was a concept introduced to me rather late in life, I suppose, as I don't have any childhood memories of it. For me, there was soup, which was hot, and then there was juice, which was cold. To some degree, I guess I still think this way. Take tomatoes for example. In their hot liquid form, they are tomato soup. In their cold liquid form, they are </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="text-decoration: line-through;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Bloody Marys</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> tomato juice. So why did Gazpacho have to cross the Atlantic/the Pyrenees and ruin everything?</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">I don't really like Gazpacho. Not even its cousin Cucumber Gazpacho. I think it's the impression I have of drinking salsa in my spoon, or maybe just the fact that I keep thinking how much more satisfying soup is when it's warm. And so it was that I'd never really come across a cold vegetable soup that I truly liked (cold strawberry soup, however, had me at hello). Sometimes, on a particularly hot summer day, I would even crave the</span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> idea</span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> of a cold vegetable soup, but never quite end up loving it when it came time to actually eat it.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Until now! Enter the avocado. </span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"></div><a name='more'></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
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<div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">The thing about avocados is that they solve a lot of problems. They make things satisfying where there was no satisfaction before. Whereas I'd experienced most cold vegetable soups as uninviting and, well, cold, avocado's creaminess and richness made everything so much more fun! </span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">The texture is one of the keys to this soup. Thick and luxurious, it's still light and airy on the tongue. But the important thing that you must get right is the lime juice. Its acidity is very important in balancing the creamy soup, so you want to be sure to add enough to give the soup brightness and zing, but not too much as to overpower the subtle, nutty avocado. </span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">This would be a great start to a summer meal, maybe with a nice cool glass of white wine. Chardonnay, anyone?</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZR3udl-LPbJi90myAxaLIgYCgmlvRMmnvifACVRGfLoxyGPbQxbHKx5wYn1H_y24TbvkTUbjeca7WmeFxxaiSWos4u3FeXv78kJZbl2ai4BC9DNm4s_bEV9c-Ix7DyTTz0oBJl-wvud8/s1600/Unknown-8.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZR3udl-LPbJi90myAxaLIgYCgmlvRMmnvifACVRGfLoxyGPbQxbHKx5wYn1H_y24TbvkTUbjeca7WmeFxxaiSWos4u3FeXv78kJZbl2ai4BC9DNm4s_bEV9c-Ix7DyTTz0oBJl-wvud8/s400/Unknown-8.jpeg" width="400" /></span></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Chilled Zucchini & Avocado Soup,</span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> found at </span><a href="http://care2.com/"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">care2.com</span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> adapted from </span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Gourmet</span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">, </span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">serves 2-4</span></i></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1 medium avocado</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1 medium zucchini, peeled</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">2 limes (or lemons)</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1 cup buttermilk</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">salt, pepper</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">ground cumin</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">ice cubes (about 5 or 6)</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Roughly chop the zucchini and steam until tender.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">When it's done, blend it with the avocado, the juice of one lime, and the buttermilk. Add the ice cubes and blend. They will melt since the zucchini is hot, thinning and cooling your soup. When you've achieved the texture you want, add juice from the second lime, but do so gradually, tasting after additions, to find the level of acidity you'd like. Add two or three good dashes of cumin, and salt and pepper to taste. </span></div>Anniehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02009525176773786683noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4051475360843851210.post-54999358206335825812010-06-13T20:41:00.003+02:002010-07-06T14:10:54.071+02:00Lunch in Lyon<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgclgP7ygEeoTZivd-ieKB4VN7EAReCzggF4Y4jkxKQD4XDzpZ6qAF5VhcrkC187a6eMBDuASx5fprkAVzfP0cDErG6ljMgRulmqw9fNes2LobQLTgvExuD_EvO-PFK4IAIvXQ8_QjgBbI/s1600/Unknown-1.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgclgP7ygEeoTZivd-ieKB4VN7EAReCzggF4Y4jkxKQD4XDzpZ6qAF5VhcrkC187a6eMBDuASx5fprkAVzfP0cDErG6ljMgRulmqw9fNes2LobQLTgvExuD_EvO-PFK4IAIvXQ8_QjgBbI/s400/Unknown-1.jpeg" width="400" /></span></a></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">My recent lack of activity is mostly not due to laziness, and is certainly not due to a lack of food tales to tell, but is in very large part due to a week of </span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">vacation</span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> around France which fed and apéritif-ed me into a deep blog coma. It is only now, after a week of catching up on work and digestion, that I am able to crawl my way back to you.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Our trip included various villages of Provence, then Marseille, then Lyon, and a detour an hour out to the old Clément Family Farm. As we visited quite a bit of Clément's family, we were received with multi-course meals and flowing wine, and as we explored the </span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">gastronomic capital of France</span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">, we ate some serious restaurant meals. Serious in many ways. There was no messing around.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">There are many meals and food moments that I could describe to you, like the one where I tried </span><i><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Os à Moelle</span></b></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> (bone marrow) for the first time at the enormous </span><a href="http://www.brasseriegeorges.com/"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Brasserie Georges</span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> in Lyon, or the </span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Amarena Cherry Sundae</span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> at the little </span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">glacier</span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> across the street from a carousel in Marseille (whimsical, eh?). I could even rave to you about Clément's grandmother's homemade </span><i><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Vin de pêche</span></b></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> (sweetened, peach-leaf infused wine). But, for (a) pure gratuitous shock value and (b) lack of photos of other food, we're gonna talk pig parts.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
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</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">I'm a pretty adventurous eater. My stomach's résumé includes such things as snails, veal cheek, cow tongue, giblet salad, head cheese, foie gras, steak tartare. Some of these things I have enjoyed more than others. But in general, there's not much I don't like, and I love trying new things. And so it was that I was feeling bold as we sat down at the little wooden table, draped in a checkered tablecloth, on the terrace of our chosen </span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">bouchon lyonnais</span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">... </span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">The place had a classic menu as well as a changing seasonal menu. From the latter, I started with a </span><i><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Terrine fromagère</span></b></i><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> with tomato coulis</span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">. Terrine is generally a type of forcemeat, which is to say meat emulsified with fat, similar to pâté. However, it's also a term often used for non-meat versions of such dishes, in this case one made of fresh cheese and herbs.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU24T8_d9CQOBJ6L_3CM8G-25UFoDPH_-u78TumAQWltEfD6CoE4FVN_HThxNLvER0vjA3uSSoeYacWWFIg7ySk5mGKA_jOB3wQ3o5kmhynJyIIowb9HR83av5OeiF0Digp70wiNhzJRQ/s1600/Unknown-2.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><img border="0" height="223" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU24T8_d9CQOBJ6L_3CM8G-25UFoDPH_-u78TumAQWltEfD6CoE4FVN_HThxNLvER0vjA3uSSoeYacWWFIg7ySk5mGKA_jOB3wQ3o5kmhynJyIIowb9HR83av5OeiF0Digp70wiNhzJRQ/s400/Unknown-2.jpeg" width="400" /></span></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">The starter was lovely, if not a bit rich. Clément had a </span><i><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Tarte à l'oignon</span></b></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> that was too good to be true.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXCICO32Dz7W0ZLmuJlJJ5VtZ6iwnDX-eRYAUgFqDUnpxSuvYx6ZHAfMG46cs1hw0ETojU2NjgauPbqzAUwYhRY3BxzqaphkruT5eE5gfhlKaEGu5j7x2wBxyqOsU08ZvZ9C9augArl7I/s1600/Unknown-6.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><img border="0" height="223" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXCICO32Dz7W0ZLmuJlJJ5VtZ6iwnDX-eRYAUgFqDUnpxSuvYx6ZHAfMG46cs1hw0ETojU2NjgauPbqzAUwYhRY3BxzqaphkruT5eE5gfhlKaEGu5j7x2wBxyqOsU08ZvZ9C9augArl7I/s400/Unknown-6.jpeg" width="400" /></span></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">The crust was buttery and flaky, the onions soft and sweet. It's not hard to make this at home, but it is hard to nail it this perfectly.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">For the main course, it was pig part time. A bottle of Côtes du Rhône (we were in the region, after all) was ordered to wash 'em down.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Clément ordered </span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Andouillette</span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">, a pig intestine sausage. The first time I ever tried this traditional French fare, I nearly gagged and couldn't finish half of it. There is a range of intensity for Andouillette: at its mildest, we can say it is earthy, and at its strongest, well, it's poopy, for lack of a better word. After I got over the emotional damage of the first experience, I've since eaten Andouillette a couple of times and enjoyed it very much. But I've also never encountered an Andouillette quite as violent as the first one. I think once you understand what is delicious about the flavor, via a milder sausage, you can continue to appreciate it even when it's a bit on the strong side. You need a gateway Andouillette, so to speak. And had this one been the first one I'd ever tried, I think it would have been love at first... ingestion. This was one tasty Andouillette, no lie. It even looks rather lovely in its mustard sauce. For an intestine sausage, that is.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOMJEViqXumif3TUS0c5uBuBuBC2-EnOFEm14aKNhSkgc86SE8Li0xQFxReIBjT7uFKiasn-JmKIU13EpHaGjpXFz2OrMHQFsHYVB-xyoL9ezDpOlEVo2nqcam81-CiYUbbYl_BlgOKN0/s1600/Unknown-4.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOMJEViqXumif3TUS0c5uBuBuBC2-EnOFEm14aKNhSkgc86SE8Li0xQFxReIBjT7uFKiasn-JmKIU13EpHaGjpXFz2OrMHQFsHYVB-xyoL9ezDpOlEVo2nqcam81-CiYUbbYl_BlgOKN0/s400/Unknown-4.jpeg" width="400" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">It even came with a magical </span><b><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Gratin dauphinois</span></i></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">, rich and milky with just a touch of warm spice from the ample dose of nutmeg. Fun fact: a traditional gratin dauphinois (i.e. potatoes au gratin) does not have any cheese! The crusty, creamy top is actually very cooked milk, made richer with cream.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaNq2qoRzhO0Y_Qp_SEl3UTKcYXGgqcZG87Fxy1SNDPJEbqgZad5mkcmSEemJYpV1yyCBYYTG4yixrOiYJ8Sit1cxTvl6ALiKeKshsyTIzE4N6mbpqm3Hs4c6EXhPGUJmCvAw-H5FaGJg/s1600/Unknown-5.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaNq2qoRzhO0Y_Qp_SEl3UTKcYXGgqcZG87Fxy1SNDPJEbqgZad5mkcmSEemJYpV1yyCBYYTG4yixrOiYJ8Sit1cxTvl6ALiKeKshsyTIzE4N6mbpqm3Hs4c6EXhPGUJmCvAw-H5FaGJg/s400/Unknown-5.jpeg" width="400" /></span></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">But then came the </span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Breaded pigs' feet</span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">. I had thought, how weird can it be? The answer: pretty weird. </span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUWmGMC3nud5Z3OpdpwTdLfI_DV0U774NJuozw6Zk_jFyGlJ1jyLoHon8NWsSgSl-wJzVacMzYiBjNPg0UBv5VL6vHXd2FnpzFajPaQBsu-yqVxMMTTL2f5CV6wt5tnzZzpjVi1edJ1uo/s1600/Unknown.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUWmGMC3nud5Z3OpdpwTdLfI_DV0U774NJuozw6Zk_jFyGlJ1jyLoHon8NWsSgSl-wJzVacMzYiBjNPg0UBv5VL6vHXd2FnpzFajPaQBsu-yqVxMMTTL2f5CV6wt5tnzZzpjVi1edJ1uo/s400/Unknown.jpeg" width="400" /></span></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">The problem is not the taste (which, other than a vague porkiness in the greasy film of fat and bread crumbs, I could not seem to find). It doesn't </span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">taste</span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> weird. It's just that you cut into the little piggy feet, and you find... nothing much. Bones, mostly. A mysterious mushy white substance which I assumed to be fat and cartilage, plenty. Meat, two bites. I counted. So... I have to say I didn't really get it.</span></div></div><div style="text-align: left;"><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div></div><div style="text-align: left;"><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">How can people enjoy this?</span></div></div><div style="text-align: left;"><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div></div><div style="text-align: left;"><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Several days later, while talking to a Frenchman familiar with </span><b><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Pieds de porc</span></i></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">, who allegedly quite likes them, I was told it's not really a dish that girls like. It's a Man Food. This provides me with two theories as to why people eat fried pigs' feet by choice: it all comes down to nature or nurture.</span></div></div><div style="text-align: left;"><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div></div><div style="text-align: left;"><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">The Nature Hypothesis: There is some sort of chemical reaction that occurs between pigs' feet and testosterone which creates a delicious flavor that can only be experienced by the males of the human species.</span></div></div><div style="text-align: left;"><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div></div><div style="text-align: left;"><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">The Nurture Hypothesis: Men have been pretending to like pigs' feet for generations to avoid looking like a wuss.</span></div></div><div style="text-align: left;"><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div></div><div style="text-align: left;"><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">I was unfortunately unable to test these hypotheses on my own Frenchman, who, with not so much as one look at me grimacing before my breaded pile of fatty bones, declined a sample.</span></div></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
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</div>Anniehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02009525176773786683noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4051475360843851210.post-68971984997025000672010-05-29T01:35:00.003+02:002010-07-06T14:11:10.230+02:00Molasses Rhubarb Tartelettes<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXKt8QsX-HUay8V-i4LJAXR0Q29cu0X5wh_Y778qc2bsFtRJ868vyreRNqwmHj8MDpeDdDrzK6aJRdXSQDVnwjJmXVcuLx7HDoxL_Zg_Wukv-I2PTj-y3XcDbtYAVy1h8iPZBbBQJamSE/s1600/IMG_1298.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXKt8QsX-HUay8V-i4LJAXR0Q29cu0X5wh_Y778qc2bsFtRJ868vyreRNqwmHj8MDpeDdDrzK6aJRdXSQDVnwjJmXVcuLx7HDoxL_Zg_Wukv-I2PTj-y3XcDbtYAVy1h8iPZBbBQJamSE/s400/IMG_1298.JPG" width="400" /></span></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Fun fact: Rhubarb is a vegetable. And vegetables make some of the funnest desserts. Rhubarb is also very tart. Logically, therefore, it makes good tarts.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">I've eaten rhubarb pie before -- I remember the first time I ate it, the rhubarb was very green, and the texture seemed so </span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">vegetal</span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> that I was very weirded out by my pie. But, as I'm making an effort to explore new produce, I decided to cook up some of my own and bought some rhubarb last weekend from a very puzzled man at a produce stand. </span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">What are you going to do with it?</span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">, he asked me in a fascinated but ashamed almost-whisper, as I'm sure a produce man selling rhubarb can lose face a bit by not knowing what it actually is.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Some restaurant guys had me get ahold of some for them</span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">, he explained, </span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">but I have no idea what it is. How does one cook this?</span></i></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">I must admit I was ill-equipped to really educate the produce man, but I was able to explain that it's very tart and people usually cook it with plenty of sugar to make desserts. I, personally, would be making tarts, I offered. Yes, I had already decided their sugary fate.</span><br />
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<div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">What I hadn't decided was the bit about the molasses. That came after a panicked, last-minute realization that I had no more "brown sugar" left. Let me explain these quotation marks: finding </span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">brown sugar</span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> in France itself has been a long process, and it isn't over. At first, I had no idea how to find it because I had no idea what it was called. I asked people if there was anything called </span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">sucre brun</span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> (literally: brown sugar). No, they said, but there is </span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">sucre roux</span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> (red sugar). So I happily and promptly bought myself a little container of sucre roux, only to discover that it was, in fact, not what I wanted. Sucre roux is </span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">raw sugar</span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">. Nice, but no cigar.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">I tried again to explain, and a friend of mine who's an experienced cook told me I must be referring to </span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">cassonnade</span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">. Cassonnade is what the French put in things like </span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">pain d'épices</span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> ("spice bread," the French version of gingerbread); things which have a nice brown color and that deeper, more caramel-y sugar flavor. That must be it, I thought to myself. So I got me some cassonade. And nope, it was just more course, unrefined sugar.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Then one day, in a certain fancy épicerie which has an entire sugar section (including sugar cubes in various shapes and colors and exotic flavored sugars), I came across a little paper sack that looked promising. So I squished it. And, just like a good bag of soft brown sugar, it squished back. It was called </span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Vergeoise</span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Vergeoise and I had a good run after that, and I was pleased to discover that I could find it in regular supermarkets. I made plenty of American goodies with it, like chocolate chip cookies and homemade granola bars. We were getting along so well, vergeoise and I. Until I read </span><a href="http://www.davidlebovitz.com/archives/2006/02/american_baking.html"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">this</span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Vergeoise is just refined beet sugar sprayed with caramel coating!</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Disappointed that vergeoise had been leading me on, had been deceiving me, at least now I knew what the real equivalent to good brown sugar was: </span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">cassonnade</span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> indeed, but the soft version. Where would I ever find that?</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">I still don't know. So I haven't. And my rhubarb got cooked with white sugar, but I decided to add some molasses. Since molasses is the stuff that gets taken out of sugar when it's refined (the strong, untamed part of sugar), adding it to white sugar is one way of putting that flavor back in the picture. But I have Blackstrap Molasses right now, which is quite strong, and added quite a lot of serious molassasity (if I may). This actually turned out to be a really good decision, in my opinion. The flavors went really well together. So in the future I plan to integrate rhubarb into my gingerbread. I will be sure to tell you how that goes.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">In the meantime, make these tartelettes! They honestly blow rhubarb pie right out of the water, also in part because of their delectable crust which uses a mix of wheat flour, corn flour, and corn meal. It gives them substance and texture, but they're still delicate. Three cheers to </span><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1584798300?ie=UTF8&tag=smitten-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=1584798300"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">the cookbook author who made it all possible</span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">!</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6niVSzf1BGhPTi2QUqkV9Lcy9jU-ifj1L71kK_l4fuRsFJ8KL90P5qzHehRJwnsk6U_DB9BNNXA6HkN5VvoEYfid8UA_epgwcMmCvVdpwXCHQyzbLPH0_5tyzyNXeOyQ4rfkMZwXfcp4/s1600/IMG_1306.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6niVSzf1BGhPTi2QUqkV9Lcy9jU-ifj1L71kK_l4fuRsFJ8KL90P5qzHehRJwnsk6U_DB9BNNXA6HkN5VvoEYfid8UA_epgwcMmCvVdpwXCHQyzbLPH0_5tyzyNXeOyQ4rfkMZwXfcp4/s400/IMG_1306.JPG" width="400" /></span></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Molasses Rhubarb Tartelettes</span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">, recipe from </span><a href="http://smittenkitchen.com/2010/05/rustic-rhubarb-tarts/"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Smitten Kitchen</span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> but adapted from </span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Good to the Grain</span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">, plus my molasses,</span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> makes about 10 tartelettes</span></i></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span> </i></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">About 4-1/2 cups rhubarb, chopped roughly (set 1-1/2 cups of this aside)</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1 cup minus 3 tablespoons sugar</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">3-4 tablespoons molasses (depending on strength, and your taste)</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1 teaspoon vanilla extract</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
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<div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1 cup all-purpose flour</span></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1 cup corn flour</span></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1/2 cup corn meal</span></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">heaping 1/4 cup sugar</span></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1 teaspoon kosher salt</span></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1 stick (1/2 cup) cold butter, finely grated with a cheese grater</span></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">generous 1/2 cup heavy cream</span></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">2 egg yolks</span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
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</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Put the 3 cups rhubarb not set aside in a saucepan with the sugar and molasses. Cook covered on low for 15-20 minutes until there's plenty of liquid that's been released from the rhubarb. Put heat on medium and uncover the saucepan, cooking 15-20 minutes more until thick, and a spoon leaves a trail in the pan. Set aside to cool.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Mix the dry ingredients for the crust together. Add grated butter, mix in briefly with hands until it ressembles course meal. Add the cream and egg yolks gradually, stirring to incorporate with a wooden spoon. Knead very briefly on a floured surface with your hands until homogenous. </span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Pull the dough into 10 equal pieces. Chill them until cold again, then put them back on your workspace and smash them flat with your hand. Spoon rhubarb compote into the center of each disk, and fold up the edges to contain the compote. Extra points for flourish, if you use overlapping, etc.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Put the tarts on a baking sheet covered in parchment paper in the freezer for at least 1 hour (but for up to 2 weeks, so you can bake these fresh when you want them! If you freezer is bigger than mine...), then bake them at 375ºF / 190ºC for about 35 minutes or until the edges have started to brown. EAT.</span></div>Anniehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02009525176773786683noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4051475360843851210.post-48356595434485698212010-05-23T21:08:00.002+02:002010-07-06T14:11:25.798+02:00A Leisurely Spring Breakfast<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjATOlS6IGWCuOefyVvblnnoBC_0zSP-69ixmuNEGqSIqzw9_QI-zHeGpZHtcArvHvFA5rm_tylVxH8cwGYhK7CH9EyI8rpr9zoA2NoXznfUMnOPs_v8aluY_vp52Wo661K9rg4lUCEzxA/s1600/IMG_1180.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><img border="0" height="223" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjATOlS6IGWCuOefyVvblnnoBC_0zSP-69ixmuNEGqSIqzw9_QI-zHeGpZHtcArvHvFA5rm_tylVxH8cwGYhK7CH9EyI8rpr9zoA2NoXznfUMnOPs_v8aluY_vp52Wo661K9rg4lUCEzxA/s400/IMG_1180.JPG" width="400" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">It's Spring! At last! Today it must have hit 80 degrees, and Spring produce is really finally showing up at my neighborhood farmer's market; or, more precisely, the omnipresent asparagus and strawberries are starting to come from France instead of Morocco. And a few exciting seasonal extras, such as rhubarb, are showing up here and there as well. So of course, this weekend, we had no choice but to come home with ALL OF THESE THINGS. </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAh8Yw-EXJwsPVVgvhK5nstzg0t5wQSWDvOTq1vnMlVTWys6kBXnVhEMfHS1UAJc4RRFqnJWFJYwEt72udWArgSanuqye1kjEnEGpwz1xrX9Eu4RHj0yiwaURhxsznola0VSWkr73ttOM/s1600/IMG_1205.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><img border="0" height="223" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAh8Yw-EXJwsPVVgvhK5nstzg0t5wQSWDvOTq1vnMlVTWys6kBXnVhEMfHS1UAJc4RRFqnJWFJYwEt72udWArgSanuqye1kjEnEGpwz1xrX9Eu4RHj0yiwaURhxsznola0VSWkr73ttOM/s400/IMG_1205.JPG" width="400" /></span></a><br />
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</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">It's a bit disappointing for me, actually, that one can go to one of the many Parisian farmer's markets and not buy a single thing that was grown within in the Ile-de-France region, or even the country! Even at the farmer's market, so much is imported, whether it be from neighboring countries like Spain, from the DOM-TOMS (overseas departments and territories, such as Guadeloupe), or just warmer, more southernly countries where stuff grows earlier and longer. I miss living in small town America where the goat farmer came every Saturday to peddle his wares, even if they were only green garlic and goat cheese with green garlic in it. In Paris, the markets are expansive and impressive and you can find so many things! But they lack that neighborly feeling, and that relationship with the physical terrain, that </span><b><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">terroir</span></i></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> that the French celebrate so. It's practically easier for me to find out where my vegetables come from when I buy them at the supermarket. How confusing for someone who tries to buy things responsibly and think about her carbon footprint!</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">But fortunately, now that the produce is starting to come from France, the vendors seem happy to advertise this fact. And I was happy to listen to them.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">So today, we dug right into our Spring produce with a late breakfast of </span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Fresh Chèvre and Dill Scrambled Eggs</span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">, </span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Asparagus Salad</span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">, and </span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Strawberry Scones</span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"></div><a name='more'></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">I actually had made the asparagus salad the day before for a picnic with friends, and we still had some leftovers. It was the first time I'd eaten asparagus raw, but I was immediately won over. If you remove the tough parts of the stem, its flesh is already surprisingly tender (in a crispy way, of course) and really pleasant to eat. With its tart vinaigrette, it makes a great counterpoint to a richer dish, in this case cheesy eggs, but the fresh taste of goat cheese and dill in the eggs kept the whole course fresh and light.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">The scones were surprisingly successful, as it's the first time I've ever made scones and I seem to be cursed to make biscuits that are slightly denser and tougher than I'd like. But the scones were light and fluffy, crunchy on the outside, and perfectly sweet (just how I like them, anyway; I suppose I like them the American way, which is to say slightly cakier and sweeter than the original version). I tried a new technique which I think may have been very helpful to their airy texture: GRATING THE COLD BUTTER WITH A FINE CHEESE GRATER. Genius. I got this idea from some anonymous reference to a </span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Cook's Illustrated</span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> recipe that I can't access without paying. So I didn't get their recipe, but I got their genius idea. I also used </span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">lower gluten flour</span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">. French all-purpose flour is type 45, whereas American all-purpose flour seems to be between 55-65, depending on the brand, based on what I've read, but there isn't exactly an overwhelming amount of information about this, especially in terms of French-American equivalents. It seems to me that French all-purpose flour is closest to White Lily flour in the US, known as a "soft flour." The more gluten there is in the flour, the "harder" it is said to be.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">The result was a lovely, soft scone. Ta-da!</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJojsiqEIMglBE6G4XqAUUq5W90SCuthErOrKAjPlT4bOFy6RxcllcUpErlLjSgRgYcLuTfa3rWKgWB-IWx-h4acgvBfTRzWTPf4XGDbgow_fpnFk23veieWgHtu8pMgkADby_rgdX6B0/s1600/IMG_1207.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><img border="0" height="223" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJojsiqEIMglBE6G4XqAUUq5W90SCuthErOrKAjPlT4bOFy6RxcllcUpErlLjSgRgYcLuTfa3rWKgWB-IWx-h4acgvBfTRzWTPf4XGDbgow_fpnFk23veieWgHtu8pMgkADby_rgdX6B0/s400/IMG_1207.JPG" width="400" /></span></a><br />
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</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Here's how it's done.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Strawberry Scones</span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">, from </span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Everyday Food</span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> but found at </span><a href="http://www.thebittenword.com/thebittenword/2010/05/fast-strawberry-scones.html#more"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">The Bitten Word</span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> and ever-so-slightly modified by me, </span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">makes 10 scones</span></i></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span> </i></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">2-1/2 cups soft all-purpose flour</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1/3 - 1/2 cup sugar (depending on sweetness preference, I was more at 1/2 cup myself and found it perfect)</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1 tablespoon baking powder</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">3/4 tablespoons kosher salt</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1/2 cup (1 stick) very cold unsalted butter</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">3/4 cup buttermilk</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1 egg, separated</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1-1/2 cup fresh strawberries, roughly diced</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1 heaping tablespoon sugar to coat</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Preheat oven to 400ºF / 200ºC. Mix the dry ingredients in a large bowl. Grate the butter with a fine-mesh cheese grater into the flour mixture, tossing the mixture a few times as you add to cover the butter with flour. Crumble dough together with your hands very briefly. Whisk the egg yolk and buttermilk in a separate bowl, then add gradually, incorporating with a fork between additions. Turn out onto a floured surface, pinch just together, and pour berries on top. Fold about 3 times just to mix in strawberries, then with your hands flatten the dough to about 1 inch thick. Pinch off pieces and place them on a baking sheet with parchment paper. Using an pastry brush and your leftover egg white with a bit of water, egg wash the tops of your scones. Sprinkle sugar over the wash. Bake for about 20 minutes or until tops are golden brown.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Fresh Chèvre and Dill Scrambled Eggs</span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">, </span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">serves 2</span></i></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1 tablespoon butter (salted or unsalted, adjust seasoning accordingly)</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">5 eggs</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">3 tablespoons fresh chèvre</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">palmful of rinsed dill, stems removed</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">salt, pepper</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Whisk eggs in a small bowl. Melt butter in a small nonstick skillet over medium-low heat. Add eggs, stir constantly as they cook, taking care to scrape the bottom well. When the eggs start to coagulate, add the chèvre and dill, stirring them in well to allow the cheese to melt. Cook until still very soft but all liquid has coagulated. </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Asparagus Salad</span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">, from </span><a href="http://beyondsalmon.blogspot.com/2010/05/natick-farmers-market-started.html"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Beyond Salmon</span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">, serves 4</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1 pound asparagus</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1 tablespoon lemon juice</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1 tablespoon Dijon mustard</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">3 tablespoons olive oil</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">salt, pepper</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Break asparagus stalks with your hands, as they will break right where they are soft. Cut off the tops and save for another use. With a vegetable peeler, shave the stalks into long strips. </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">In a small bowl, combine lemon juice, mustard, olive oil, and salt and pepper to taste. Stir well until the mixture emulsifies (combines into a cohesive sauce). Toss with asparagus strips and serve.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
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</div>Anniehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02009525176773786683noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4051475360843851210.post-14999671304218642672010-05-16T12:11:00.007+02:002010-07-06T14:11:39.943+02:00on Salted Butter Caramel Mousse, Mistakes, and Magic<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjGn_eNCPx2YpeOARE1ag5S4-VOnzINcuZt_O2qcHsetN0RQOYyZZ4DhHFT9G2k916JJLHzbJHHa2GZ2GbEv541XIPb7Vnoq43rDkGpvvHjAHCdxZaRJOxv08kpnj58wcxNc9f5sg7_mU/s1600/IMG_1101.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjGn_eNCPx2YpeOARE1ag5S4-VOnzINcuZt_O2qcHsetN0RQOYyZZ4DhHFT9G2k916JJLHzbJHHa2GZ2GbEv541XIPb7Vnoq43rDkGpvvHjAHCdxZaRJOxv08kpnj58wcxNc9f5sg7_mU/s400/IMG_1101.JPG" width="400" /></span></a></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
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<div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">There is something you absolutely have to do immediately if you have not already done so in your life. Bored? Had a bad day? Having an existential crisis? Or simply craving dessert?</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">MAKE CARAMEL NOW.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">I personally made it for the first time over week ago, and now I can't stop making caramel. I don't want to stop making caramel.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">All the times you make caramel will be delightful experiences, but the first is the best. I hear they say that about a lot of hard drugs, too. I guess caramel has a lot in common with hard drugs. But seriously. It's magical. You're worried, you hear that your sugar will reach a way-beyond boiling 338ºF and if you manage to drop it on your face you'll pretty much be sad. You watch your scalding sugar boil away and wonder if it will ever really turn to caramel or if it will simply disfigure you and your favorite saucepan. Does caramel only happen in the movies? Does it only happen to people richer, more attractive, and more successful than me? But then your sugar starts to turn brown, and then browner, and browner, and behold!</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">CARAMEL CAN HAPPEN TO YOU!</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Here's how.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
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</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Step 1. Do not be afraid. Whatever you may hear, you do not need a candy thermometer. You do not need to wear safety goggles. You will not ruin your pan, and it's pretty hard to drop caramel on your face. You will be OK.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Step 2. Put some sugar in a saucepan. Add just a tiny bit of water, enough to wet your sugar. Have some butter and warm cream waiting nearby. Make sure there's no sugar on the sides of the pan. Give it a little wipe around with a towel. Now, boil.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Step 3. Watch your sugar boil, but don't touch it. No stirring. Remember, this is magic, pay attention.</span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-7UqoVxzYWv-lv0Hf9GisY1XPcTIUkJTNpAgtMOoJDD3SulXUB2U0-3taUh5Zb8MM7DF9Ub7gtXgAfG0owA0YiQr9DmFg-I5j12IrqYCUAE3eKeLXWbPviqqxufVnhC3OKcXvPSW762w/s1600/IMG_1036.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-7UqoVxzYWv-lv0Hf9GisY1XPcTIUkJTNpAgtMOoJDD3SulXUB2U0-3taUh5Zb8MM7DF9Ub7gtXgAfG0owA0YiQr9DmFg-I5j12IrqYCUAE3eKeLXWbPviqqxufVnhC3OKcXvPSW762w/s400/IMG_1036.JPG" width="400" /></span></a></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
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<div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">After a few minutes of boiling, the water will have evaporated, and your sugar will start to cook. It will change color quickly once it gets going, so don't leave your sugar alone. Swirl the pan around every now and again. Keep watching. </span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDndEVRSzN5WkRu1x67aQjVV7o_cefEPAqKbuQDCFDy_P46X8Y39UmzkZ_USBoFnD4GU-RtQwO46Sdp-jXJro888GsaZnMw1wQf-jFWakZvUe558XznhqcufLKzuFcl4CVwsOg9u4jimw/s1600/IMG_1037.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDndEVRSzN5WkRu1x67aQjVV7o_cefEPAqKbuQDCFDy_P46X8Y39UmzkZ_USBoFnD4GU-RtQwO46Sdp-jXJro888GsaZnMw1wQf-jFWakZvUe558XznhqcufLKzuFcl4CVwsOg9u4jimw/s400/IMG_1037.JPG" width="400" /></span></a></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit7y_zWnx0fY9liIPbaGGZnpPvZUgTJcQMXkz-TNsEKivKi3M2a0RTs-9zFHjRC99005HeSeUEUUY2RDg1idVciptuYt-hcd3My2WjffyfO8jRsuorONIrYsDdmxxwb0vj_UjD82NSID4/s1600/IMG_1039.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit7y_zWnx0fY9liIPbaGGZnpPvZUgTJcQMXkz-TNsEKivKi3M2a0RTs-9zFHjRC99005HeSeUEUUY2RDg1idVciptuYt-hcd3My2WjffyfO8jRsuorONIrYsDdmxxwb0vj_UjD82NSID4/s400/IMG_1039.JPG" width="400" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjz7ongPKXdegcC269-62bjzs9vpvWqlAeSAGhBoioqjT6MujkfHFs32uP0UV30GhWtESrGgDAp5ahtXdPw2Vov6mahBTAJZJNYGzoiB7U5T6PSaN_v2Vv_3PH9lSjFSI9CnxHyrHqhWcQ/s1600/IMG_1040.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjz7ongPKXdegcC269-62bjzs9vpvWqlAeSAGhBoioqjT6MujkfHFs32uP0UV30GhWtESrGgDAp5ahtXdPw2Vov6mahBTAJZJNYGzoiB7U5T6PSaN_v2Vv_3PH9lSjFSI9CnxHyrHqhWcQ/s400/IMG_1040.JPG" width="400" /></span></a><br />
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</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">And voilà!</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzT44-QYhznk9TTfG1h_NRkgY-z3yscrjtOccGPPqOrUPXEw88UAW3FbGFGsLiRvrpVf4em559x46W_-k7nucwGbsNth5_LmgMT2EENClJ-v1bQ_wah_mPyHt9aaU1wCARZBlBV6kgfyI/s1600/IMG_1042.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzT44-QYhznk9TTfG1h_NRkgY-z3yscrjtOccGPPqOrUPXEw88UAW3FbGFGsLiRvrpVf4em559x46W_-k7nucwGbsNth5_LmgMT2EENClJ-v1bQ_wah_mPyHt9aaU1wCARZBlBV6kgfyI/s400/IMG_1042.JPG" width="400" /></span></a><br />
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<div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Step 4. You'll know when it's ready. Trust yourself. Don't waste time asking someone else for their opinion, because timing is super important. This is your caramel and you have to own it. If you trust your instincts, you will feel that it's ready; or, more specifically, you will see that it is dark-amber in color, and smell that it smells just like the caramel you dreamed you'd make. At that moment, turn off the heat. Add the butter, whisk whisk whisk. Add the warm cream little by little, whisk whisk whisk. You have just made caramel sauce. It's delicious. You can pour it on everything in your immediate vicinity.</span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1LCStg1gjvW3f3gU-uU8bAFngMjJRhZe_FN3hu17NTXiKGccpLfDMI72b5yCyhg6HJWn4J0FRw838lqKjLh4JKEWDkJB684Y6DH_DU-l0zXAx6I3KfWyxaGAeE9kmt9NLY12dnIB2YbY/s1600/IMG_1046.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1LCStg1gjvW3f3gU-uU8bAFngMjJRhZe_FN3hu17NTXiKGccpLfDMI72b5yCyhg6HJWn4J0FRw838lqKjLh4JKEWDkJB684Y6DH_DU-l0zXAx6I3KfWyxaGAeE9kmt9NLY12dnIB2YbY/s400/IMG_1046.JPG" width="400" /></span></a></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
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<div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Or, you can add some egg yolks, and then some frothy egg whites, and make caramel mousse.</span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYl5HUd0WZ8OZ38q2_RpB3A9pGaZjIvmalcoSUE2MhBhI084JLgm19elA8RUcePsJbbU3m56-Zze0I81fYnA-3uLKl0AZo9yqbKuyN5g_cf2i-HTwDDeQePh9e-DCW6ERPSepKm7V-4l0/s1600/IMG_1047.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYl5HUd0WZ8OZ38q2_RpB3A9pGaZjIvmalcoSUE2MhBhI084JLgm19elA8RUcePsJbbU3m56-Zze0I81fYnA-3uLKl0AZo9yqbKuyN5g_cf2i-HTwDDeQePh9e-DCW6ERPSepKm7V-4l0/s400/IMG_1047.JPG" width="400" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">At least that's what I thought.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">It turns out that chocolate mousse gets its volume from the egg whites, but keeps its structure thanks to the chocolate which, when it cools, hardens, and holds the whole thing together. Recipes for caramel mousse that don't include chocolate generally include gelatin, but I was not aware of this, and did not bother to find out.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">So after having patiently waited for my mousse to cool in the fridge, I stuck in my spoon for a nice, fluffy bite, and everything seemed to be going well...</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwnyx-3UdEGwB_cNPdRYgNt-6VeTxQ0XhHDmo1NxHkbsAFkFb2UG6oYNsUDuXGparofMLx72_wtlIr3Ce2NOcxlkfQXUWMHAneuFcb8-FN9Ath0F1PgbYjVLuqkfORmRXR2fXThZwRrR0/s1600/IMG_1100.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwnyx-3UdEGwB_cNPdRYgNt-6VeTxQ0XhHDmo1NxHkbsAFkFb2UG6oYNsUDuXGparofMLx72_wtlIr3Ce2NOcxlkfQXUWMHAneuFcb8-FN9Ath0F1PgbYjVLuqkfORmRXR2fXThZwRrR0/s400/IMG_1100.JPG" width="400" /></span></a><br />
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</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">The mousse was fantastically light and airy, more so than any mousse I could remember having! Just as I began to beam with pride, I saw it. The reason my mousse was so light was because the liquid had drained out and puddled at the bottom of the bowl. </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">NOOOOOOOOOOOOOO.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">But wait--what was this liquid? I poked my spoon around to find out.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguPLiAYx6RxIWt5xoXACfc_Xk-1LAgN-QnO-_LS7qw7WlIJxPNZ1eeJIux3GYjd5EBIw9e55AZBp3oR48838C1FwQGUgOYUwc4aWskPgEQUCEGQM1T7Mdn_QPelfTXPRIXwVZJ0cNnWyE/s1600/IMG_1110.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguPLiAYx6RxIWt5xoXACfc_Xk-1LAgN-QnO-_LS7qw7WlIJxPNZ1eeJIux3GYjd5EBIw9e55AZBp3oR48838C1FwQGUgOYUwc4aWskPgEQUCEGQM1T7Mdn_QPelfTXPRIXwVZJ0cNnWyE/s400/IMG_1110.JPG" width="400" /></span></a><br />
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</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">That's right. It was CARAMEL. I had made a weightless caramel mousse that was floating on a little pool of CARAMEL. While technically a failure, this was the most delicious failure of my life.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
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</span></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaiYv-G9gHuK1Ue3HB2BcY-232joKY426OFe41iITpNkdUledyTCNmwX27GXt7d7MjUiLlCCFoIX3uYlIe6xV7GdIVAGV0OG1TgQSgedVtKiqZinXmSzMUvrg63nGGKzmNqkc2C2Mc8B0/s1600/IMG_1113.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaiYv-G9gHuK1Ue3HB2BcY-232joKY426OFe41iITpNkdUledyTCNmwX27GXt7d7MjUiLlCCFoIX3uYlIe6xV7GdIVAGV0OG1TgQSgedVtKiqZinXmSzMUvrg63nGGKzmNqkc2C2Mc8B0/s400/IMG_1113.JPG" width="400" /></span></a><br />
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</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">So I thought I'd share it with you.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">If you'd like a recipe that is not technically a mistake, try this </span><a href="http://www.acozykitchen.com/salted-caramel-chocolate-mousse/#more-3078"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Salted Caramel Dark Chocolate Mousse</span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">, or this recipe for </span><a href="http://www.bbc.co.uk/food/recipes/database/caramelmousse_1549.shtml"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Caramel Mousse</span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">. But, if you like puddles of caramel, keep reading.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Molten Salted Butter Caramel Mousse</span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">, serves 5</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">3/4 sugar</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">4 tablespoons water</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">3 tablespoons salted butter, cut into pats</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1 cup of heavy cream, warmed</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">3 eggs, separated</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1 teaspoon vanilla extract</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Pour the sugar into a heavy-bottomed saucepan with high sides (3-4 inches higher than the level of the sugar). Add the water. Wipe the inside of the sides of the saucepan quickly with a towel or pastry brush just to be sure they're free of clinging sugar. Put on medium-high heat, and watch it closely but </span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">do not stir</span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">. Swirl the pan around occasionally to mix as the sugar cooks. Bring the cream to a boil, and keep it warm.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">When the sugar has turned a dark amber color and smells like caramel, remove from the heat. Add the butter and whisk quickly to incorporate. The caramel will froth up at first.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Add the hot cream little by little to the mixture, whisking well. The caramel will froth up quite a bit at each addition, especially the first ones.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Beat the egg whites to stiff peaks while the mixture cools slightly.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Add in the vanilla to the caramel, then the egg yolks. When these are combined, fold in the egg whites. Pour the mousse into serving dishes (five 1-cup bowls) and refrigerate for about 5-6 hours. Top with whipped cream and/or sea salt if desired.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">More caramel fun:</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">-</span><a href="http://smittenkitchen.com/2010/01/caramel-pudding/"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Caramel Pudding</span></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">-</span><a href="http://www.starchefs.com/chefs/JTorres/html/recipe_02.shtml"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Caramelized Nuts</span></a></div>Anniehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02009525176773786683noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4051475360843851210.post-20181510951942370482010-05-15T15:01:00.004+02:002010-07-06T14:11:54.081+02:00Savory Mini Puff Pastries<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBIf4-2ma35oolncqI68cT1sh_2Y8jdbAytuVnNp9sg2WNcAo4VLsr4tt2OtM2DKb3q77HmdMOvciiUmUjpmBBZqyUAIoEFCwwx2DtLykckJvgYjPIgx9y3HnRtxU6KFjs4rISm0rD2J0/s1600/IMG_1028.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBIf4-2ma35oolncqI68cT1sh_2Y8jdbAytuVnNp9sg2WNcAo4VLsr4tt2OtM2DKb3q77HmdMOvciiUmUjpmBBZqyUAIoEFCwwx2DtLykckJvgYjPIgx9y3HnRtxU6KFjs4rISm0rD2J0/s400/IMG_1028.JPG" width="400" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">One of my favorite institutions of French culture is the ritual involved in eating, most especially the ritual known as the </span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Apéro</span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">The apéro is a mysterious beast, as it is not simply the little appetizer snacks one might have before dinner, although it frequently includes peanuts, radishes and butter, chips, or other such little nibbles. It also includes alcohol, especially before-dinner drinks like Pastis, Muscat, Martini (the sweet, wine-based kind, which is a mix of wine, plant extracts, vermouth, and sugar), or the always-acceptable wine or beer. An apéro can be a short little appetite-teasing affair before the meal begins, but it can also be an entire evening in itself, followed by no meal whatsoever. When ample food is involved, this can be referred to as an </span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Apéro Dinatoire</span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">. Otherwise, it's just what we English-speakers would call a </span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">party</span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">The apéro has been getting some </span><a href="http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/worldnews/europe/france/7720198/Paris-braced-for-aperitif-flashmob-and-le-binge-drinking.html"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">media attention</span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> lately in France, as Facebook users have been organizing Giant Apéros in various regions of the country where hundreds, sometimes thousands, of people show up in a public space to "meet people" / drink a lot. There have been reports of comas, and even one death in the most recent apéro géant. Police are cracking down, as the events, being unofficial and unregistered with the local government, are illegal. The Parisian apéro géant, which is foreseen for May 28th, was to be the biggest one yet, but apparently lots of people are dropping out, as the police are getting ready to squash them. And nobody likes for their apéro to be squashed.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">A recent, more life-sized and less dramatic apéro of my own was accompanied by these savory puff pastries. Which actually made it fairly dramatic. I'd never successfully made a </span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">pâte feuilleté</span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> before, but I was surprised to find that the recipe was quite easy, and yielded delicious, buttery, flaky results. A batch of these is a perfect snack with the people you'll share your dinner with, over a little </span><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kir_(cocktail)"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">kir</span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">, perhaps, just to make your meal that much more ceremonious.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj40gAACRmoeDgq2I9apDl51Dnf4iHHxAfdMdaXAbAlOvosHlo6fIGLklzZx6uH4ev1GPahJevJJg42y8l3j3NZplKf1G_9K1IecTeJc_siZrmqb4MGiu2aDVh08Is9Y7loo6eVepbl08/s1600/IMG_1017.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj40gAACRmoeDgq2I9apDl51Dnf4iHHxAfdMdaXAbAlOvosHlo6fIGLklzZx6uH4ev1GPahJevJJg42y8l3j3NZplKf1G_9K1IecTeJc_siZrmqb4MGiu2aDVh08Is9Y7loo6eVepbl08/s400/IMG_1017.JPG" width="400" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"></div><a name='more'></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">I filled mine with </span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Comté</span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> this time, last time I filled them with </span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">pesto</span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">. You can fill them with anything not too liquidy (you don't want the pasty to drink your filling). One important thing: you want your filling to be salty, and if it's not sufficiently salty, you need to add extra salt to the dough. Salt is key.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig5RTCMQrMG31BnbDb5aAQ4LxrQGWupbCvSZdbq2CWLwqQmaMBItZbvMy8aVbNSjn5f2_KAgU56pqGNTIgUU4zLNdmckSrKf2SrsS7omwV1I-4Uba2ohyphenhyphen6FkclwH8zWsJZOwnhMWB6cz4/s1600/IMG_1023.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig5RTCMQrMG31BnbDb5aAQ4LxrQGWupbCvSZdbq2CWLwqQmaMBItZbvMy8aVbNSjn5f2_KAgU56pqGNTIgUU4zLNdmckSrKf2SrsS7omwV1I-4Uba2ohyphenhyphen6FkclwH8zWsJZOwnhMWB6cz4/s400/IMG_1023.JPG" width="400" /></span></a><br />
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</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">It's also important to poke little holes in them with a toothpick so the steam can escape, and pressing their edges together with a fork helps keep them together.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Another note: I must admit, if you use cheese, do not grate your cheese like me, but rather cut little slices, and your life will be much easier.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9WE-3X9FGqQuxbUTHxmI9Y4BOsz8BD2VBSnUwc9qKp15AL1FMS7MEZCYgrFMYemNd6eUQ0dt-SZ02oIsK3mxQeL1OHhoiB_AHbJlwiD-rUwx5qiyWvYjJFMSgx8doK7jOH_svYfwqY_A/s1600/IMG_1022.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9WE-3X9FGqQuxbUTHxmI9Y4BOsz8BD2VBSnUwc9qKp15AL1FMS7MEZCYgrFMYemNd6eUQ0dt-SZ02oIsK3mxQeL1OHhoiB_AHbJlwiD-rUwx5qiyWvYjJFMSgx8doK7jOH_svYfwqY_A/s400/IMG_1022.JPG" width="400" /></span></a><br />
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</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">I made these based on </span><a href="http://smittenkitchen.com/2010/04/homemade-pop-tarts/#more-6169"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Smitten Kitchen's recipe for Pop-Tarts</span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">, but made them smaller, and I put an egg wash on top for a shiny, golden brown crust that would hold on sesame seeds, so mine don't so much ressemble Pop-Tarts anymore, but they're nice little snack-size pastries.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Savory Puff Pastries</span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">, makes about 16 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" pastries</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">2 cups all-purpose flour</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">salt (1/2 teaspoon if your filling is salty like pesto, more like 1 teaspoon if it's a less salty filling like Comté)</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1 cup unsalted butter, cut into small cubes</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1 egg</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">2 tablespoons milk</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1 additional egg for the wash</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">About 1/2 cup of whatever filling you choose</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Mix flour and salt. Incorporate butter by working it in with your fingers (or by using appropriate pastry technology). When the mixture still has little bits of butter visible but holds together when you squeeze it, whisk the first egg and milk together in a separate bowl, then add it to the dough. Mix just til combined. Knead it briefly on a floured surface, separate in two. Roll out the first half to a square about 1/8" thick, and cut it into little squares of your desired size (mine were about 1-1/2"). Brush them with the second egg. Put a little bit of filling in the middle, leaving room around to seal. Roll out the second part of the dough in the same manner. Put the little squares on top of the filled ones, brush on the egg wash, seal with a fork, and vent with a toothpick. Sprinkle with sesame seeds for garnish if desired. Bake at 350ºF / 170ºC for 25-30 minutes, until golden brown on top. </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
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</div>Anniehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02009525176773786683noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4051475360843851210.post-26354347380695148412010-05-10T01:07:00.005+02:002010-07-06T14:12:07.938+02:00Green Tea Cupcakes<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeO2Ax2hvjLe2IiP6I8vfohDKhtuw9weCyVbENhHI9O077T_IixpFaPJSNZpKDhWMEujwwD2EZNYXuFff1dWDlyN1nNQ7B-qo9I-Fp9jfpD9L3RJSAc9FCX-4JShdep7OyR77vTNmo9us/s1600/IMG_0991.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeO2Ax2hvjLe2IiP6I8vfohDKhtuw9weCyVbENhHI9O077T_IixpFaPJSNZpKDhWMEujwwD2EZNYXuFff1dWDlyN1nNQ7B-qo9I-Fp9jfpD9L3RJSAc9FCX-4JShdep7OyR77vTNmo9us/s400/IMG_0991.JPG" width="400" /></span></a></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
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<div style="text-align: justify;"><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Belleville,_Paris"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Belleville</span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> is a very international neighborhood of Paris known especially for being home to one of the two Chinatown districts in the city. It's not far from my own neighborhood, conveniently enough, and it makes for some pretty fun grocery shopping. Even better, if you get tired while exploring the endless aisles of curious delicacies the shops have to offer, you can take a pork bun break at one of the Chinese bakery counters, and go back to your shopping nourished and invigorated. </span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">A trip there last week resulted in an array of sauces, noodles, and vinegars I'm excited about exploring. </span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Tamarind paste</span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> is one thing I'm looking forward to getting into. But the big revelation I had was to get on to the </span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">baking with matcha</span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> train.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">It all started when I impulsively picked up a pack of green tea noodles (which I later ate simply dressed with soy sauce and sesame oil, and thoroughly enjoyed), and got to thinking that there's a lot of potential in green tea. I could make green tea flavored anything. And it was with this thought in my mind that I purchased my first powdered green tea. </span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">My matcha baking debuted the very next day, with the need for a last-minute dessert to contribute to the dinner a good friend was making. I searched the internet for interesting green tea dessert recipes, and ended up choosing cupcakes, partially I think due to a recent cupcake catastrophe that occurred when I tried to make </span><a href="http://www.bonappetit.com/recipes/2010/04/banana_cupcakes_with_peanut_butter_frosting"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">these puppies</span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">, </span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Banana Cupcakes with Peanut Butter Frosting</span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">. It sounded great, and it would have been great, if I had made about 1/4 of the icing the recipe called for. But instead, I made the full recipe (which was supposed to correspond to the quantity of cupcakes also involved in said recipe...), and piled 'em high with pillowy frosting. To my horror, they were so sweet and so rich, they actually caused me to entirely lose my desire to eat cupcakes. They were basically nauseating, and on top of that it sparked yet another conversation about how us Americans eat such rich food, etc. etc. So this time I was hoping to avenge my last cupcake failure with something less sweet and more subtle. This was my big chance!</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
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</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">So I found a recipe for basic matcha cupcakes, and made my own icing by mixing matcha, mascarpone, and a little bit of powdered sugar. They were exactly what I was hoping for! Soft, moist, delicate, and just sweet enough. My cupcake skills were reconfirmed to my cupcake-eating audience, and I am officially a believer in green tea baked goods. As if I'd ever doubted, as much as I learned I love matcha-flavored sweets when I first ate the </span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Matcha Gelato</span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> at Gelati d'Alberto...</span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
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<div style="text-align: justify;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Matcha Cupcakes</span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> (recipe found at </span><a href="http://cupcakeblog.com/?p=58"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Cupcake Bakeshop</span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">), makes one dozen</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">2 cups sugar (I cut mine down to somewhere between 1-1/2 and 1-3/4 cups)</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">2 large eggs</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">2 large egg yolks</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">3 cups all-purpose flour (I used French all-purpose flour, which has a gluten content of 45, closer to American cake flour--this will give you a more tender texture, as I learned from my bread/cake research)</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">2 teaspoons baking powder</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1/8 teaspoon salt</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1 cup milk</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1 tablespoons matcha</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Grease and flour your muffin tin, or put paper linings in it. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit / 175 Celsius.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Beat butter on high for about 30 seconds or until soft. Add sugar, beat for another 3 minutes or so, until light and fluffy. Add eggs one at a time, beating between additions.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Mix the dry ingredients together in another bowl, and the milk and matcha in yet another bowl, mixing well until there are no clumps. </span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Add the wet and dry mixtures to the butter mixture alternately, mixing just to combine between additions.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Ladle into prepared muffin tin, bake for 22-25 minutes until a toothpick comes out clean. </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
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<div style="text-align: justify;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Matcha Frosting</span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">, frosts one dozen cupcakes</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">2 tablespoons matcha</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">2 tablespoons milk</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">3/4 cup mascarpone</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1-1/2 tablespoons powdered sugar</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Mix matcha into milk until totally dissolved. Blend with mascarpone. Stir in the powdered sugar. Spread onto cupcakes.</span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
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</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">I also topped my cupcakes with a little dab of red bean paste (</span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">azuki</span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">). Another variation would be to omit the frosting, and when pouring the batter into the muffin tins, pour in half, put a spoonful of azuki in the center, and then fill the rest of the way up to have red-bean filling. You could dust them with powdered sugar and matcha powder, and I think that would work out pretty well, too.</span></div>Anniehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02009525176773786683noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4051475360843851210.post-83506145982453469872010-05-04T10:07:00.003+02:002010-07-06T14:12:26.503+02:00Dirty Sticky Rice and Scallion Galettes<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3NnGURqvv5zaupkDsAYLVuEdQigT8rPnOy-9kBUPN93r8hPG06otdIUrJVyUIaWkxSSamUVQKZcUEg2mIY7O-P2dflivVjWJzjo6OshZZ7-U4QTs1ba8vaev1E6PJt5hhrOsM9wDbJiM/s1600/IMG_0939.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3NnGURqvv5zaupkDsAYLVuEdQigT8rPnOy-9kBUPN93r8hPG06otdIUrJVyUIaWkxSSamUVQKZcUEg2mIY7O-P2dflivVjWJzjo6OshZZ7-U4QTs1ba8vaev1E6PJt5hhrOsM9wDbJiM/s400/IMG_0939.JPG" width="400" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Last week, I bought a bunch of scallions to try my hand at Pad Thai. It worked out well, but afterward I had quite a bit of scallions leftover. What's a girl to do with a million scallions? Scallion galettes, that's what. So the next day, we made the galettes by briefly boiling some scallions, draining, and blending them, mixing them with egg, flour, and more chopped scallions, and then cooking them in some oil. They were lovely. Clément also prepared some ground pork seasoned with soy sauce and sesame oil like he remembered eating with another version of scallion galettes in China. </span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzOo6Lxdgc9fKMKwTi6T-1Ixmn-Fh5LndOsj59PYXsXBtFTB1HvA4Q2a3HR-_dPGDjbs_006PVqVei6SJ9-BBtCU8MIndDpv-TIXfw_w3CZGjY3s4O1-y9I2UjnKVnDLYjhbZ_ae4Uuys/s1600/IMG_0905.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzOo6Lxdgc9fKMKwTi6T-1Ixmn-Fh5LndOsj59PYXsXBtFTB1HvA4Q2a3HR-_dPGDjbs_006PVqVei6SJ9-BBtCU8MIndDpv-TIXfw_w3CZGjY3s4O1-y9I2UjnKVnDLYjhbZ_ae4Uuys/s400/IMG_0905.JPG" width="400" /></span></a></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
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<div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Then, after a weekend of buying ingredients for specific recipes, we had the fridge full of lots of assorted leftover ingredients, plus some pork and a few galettes. It was clearly a fried rice moment. But fried rice with ground pork, this was clearly reminiscent of Dirty Rice. And so was born Dirty Sticky Rice. </span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">I had also made a carrot-ginger salad dressing from Smitten Kitchen last week, and we still had carrots and ginger in our hot little hands, so I made it again (it's fantastic), and we thus finished off the leftover salad and cucumber. Success! Now we can fit beer in the fridge again!</span><br />
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<div style="text-align: justify;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Scallion Galettes</span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> (from Mark Bittman's </span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Diner's Journal</span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">), serves 4</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1 pound scallions</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1 egg</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1 teaspoon soy sauce</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1/2 cup flour</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">cooking oil</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">salt, pepper</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Separate out 3/4 of your scallions. Wash them, chop them roughly, and drop them in salted boiling water to cook for 5 minutes. Meanwhile, finely mince the remaining 1/4 of your scallions. When the boiling batch is done, drain them and purée them in a blender.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Add the egg and soy sauce, mix to combine. Then add the flour, salt, and pepper. Toss in the minced scallions, mix it all together, and drop small quantities (between 1 tablespoon and 1/4 cup, to your liking) onto a greased, hot griddle that won't stick. Cook about 2 minutes per side until browned.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Dirty Sticky Rice</span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">, serves 2 heartily</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1-1/2 cups sticky rice</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1 medium yellow onion, chopped</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1 large carrot, grated</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1 large garlic clove, minced</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1 small red chili pepper, minced</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">3/4 cup ground pork, cooked in sesame oil, sugar, and soy sauce</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">2 tablespoons cooking oil</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1 teaspoon sesame oil</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1 teaspoon soy sauce</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1 dash rice vinegar</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">2 eggs</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Wash the rice and put it in a saucepan with 2-1/4 cups water and a dash of salt. Bring to a boil, then reduce to low heat and cook for about 15 minutes or until water is absorbed. Remove from heat, set aside.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Heat the cooking oil in a large nonstick skillet to medium heat. When it is hot, add the onion and sautée for a couple of minutes, until fragrant and slightly translucent. Add the carrot, garlic, and chili pepper. Sautée for a few minutes more, stir in the pork, and stir in the rice. Add the sesame oil, soy sauce, and rice vinegar (adjust to taste, as it depends on the seasoning of your meat). Break the eggs directly into the pan, stir to combine. When egg is cooked, turn off heat and serve.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Carrot Ginger Dressing</span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> (found at Smitten Kitchen, actually from Gwenyth Paltrow...), serves 4</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1 large carrot, peeled and roughly chopped</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1 small shallot, peeled and roughly chopped</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">2 tablespoons ginger, peeled and roughly chopped</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">2 tablespoons miso paste (the original recipe calls for sweet white miso, but I used my dark miso and it was quite good)</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">2 tablespoons rice vinegar</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">2 tablespoons sesame oil</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">2 tablespoons water</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1/4 cup neutral oil (peanut, grape seed, sunflower seed, etc.)</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Throw it all in your blender or food processor and blend until smooth.</span></div>Anniehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02009525176773786683noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4051475360843851210.post-63245169723210098742010-05-03T00:47:00.005+02:002010-07-06T14:12:41.806+02:00BRUNCH PARTY! + Mini Chèvre Cheesecakes with Strawberry Coulis<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJXMwli51CauCN4VHLpIKdHK_M29pghLsnNh8jOSpWKf2CFLNVF5XdJz3eF8hFw9F6wc4s83LaJCygH6WA9ad9gzc33ZqiUilEu_4RUoJAYxh6x2Os5JTz6RKQFNaEKDsOAe4739Toa-Y/s1600/IMG_0933.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJXMwli51CauCN4VHLpIKdHK_M29pghLsnNh8jOSpWKf2CFLNVF5XdJz3eF8hFw9F6wc4s83LaJCygH6WA9ad9gzc33ZqiUilEu_4RUoJAYxh6x2Os5JTz6RKQFNaEKDsOAe4739Toa-Y/s400/IMG_0933.JPG" width="400" /></span></a></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
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<div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">It's Spring, it's Sunday, and we had friends in town. What better occasion for a BRUNCH PARTY?</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Hoping to wow said friends with my sparkling culinary wit and American brunching know-how, as soon as we decided that the BRUNCH PARTY would be held chez Clément and I, which happened Friday evening when I got home from work, I immediately started planning the menu. Sundays can sometimes be a little tricky for errands, and Saturday was May 1st (French Labor Day), so forget doing major shopping then, as many shops are closed. I had to get the ball rolling, as they say. And roll it did.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Until, of course, I came home from the store starving and sleepy, and pretty much ate dinner and went to bed. It pretty much stopped rolling then.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">But then, like a Brunching Superhero, I woke up early Saturday morning, bought the couple of ingredients I couldn't find and/or forgot to buy on Friday (all while fending off aggressive Lily-of-the-Valley hustlers, the relentless May Day flower pushers that come out once a year--ok, maybe they're 7 years old, but that's no excuse), and did some preparation work so that Sunday would go smoothly, even after a night of endless sangria at our favorite tapas place.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">And smoothly it went, indeed. Dessert done in advance, all we had to do this morning was whip up hollandaise sauce, make biscuits, fry potatoes, and poach eggs. Considering we were a team of 4, this was pretty manageable.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
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</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">My goal was to make Eggs Benedict, but over chive biscuits instead of English Muffins. However, we deemed the cutting in half of said biscuits too risky, as they were rather smaller than I had imagined them, and would not have very gracefully survived the surgery. So, I settled on a more deconstructed version of the dish, serving the biscuits on the side. The biscuits were great. I got them from Smitten Kitchen's recipe for </span><a href="http://smittenkitchen.com/2007/05/my-bacon-is-always-crisp/"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Buttermilk and Chive Biscuits</span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">, but used soured milk in the place of buttermilk (you know, the tablespoon of lemon juice in the cup of milk and wait one minute trick).</span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
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<div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">We started by snacking on Virginia Peanuts brought from home, and pink radishes with butter and a mixture of fleur de sel and smoked paprika. I got the idea of the salt/paprika mix from </span><a href="http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/2007/04/avocado_and_radish_canapes_with_smoked_salt.php"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">this</span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> recipe for Avocado and Radish Canapés with Smoked Salt, which I made a couple of weeks ago and can heartily recommend that you try, especially seeing as it's prime radish season. And don't throw away the leaves, make the </span><a href="http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/2009/05/radish_leaf_pesto.php"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">radish leaf pesto</span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> instead!</span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
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<div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">So then for the main dish, we had poached eggs over canadian bacon with hollandaise sauce, chive biscuits, home-fried potatoes, and a green salad. I unfortunately don't have any pictures of this, as I was busily poaching and doling out eggs, and then eating them. But I do have Clément's trusty recipe for home-fried potatoes, or simply "potatoes" in French (fast-food restaurants use the English word "potatoes" for the "rustic fries," and it's caught on). Then next is the recipe for dessert.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Potatoes façon Clément </span></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Cut your desired quantity of potatoes (a type that fries well) into bite-sized pieces, peeling them if desired. Put them in a tupperware container or other lightweight container that closes tightly. Add a small amount of oil, close lid and shake until coated. Then pour in enough flour to coat, and whatever spices you like (paprika, cayenne, cumin is a good start) with salt and pepper. Close the lid and shake again until coated.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Heat 1/2 inch oil in a skillet on medium-high heat. When hot enough that a potato sizzles when you put it in, add your potatoes. Fry until golden brown on one side, then flip and repeat.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Drain on paper towels.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Mini Chèvre Cheesecakes with Strawberry Coulis</span></span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
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<div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">I followed the same chèvre cheesecake recipe as usual, but this time I topped it with a strawberry coulis (it's strawberry season!). Instead of making a crust, I served the cheesecakes with a speculos cookie. Let me just say that strawberry coulis is amazing and takes all of 10 minutes to make.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Cheesecake (slightly modified from the </span><a href="http://becksposhnosh.blogspot.com/2005/03/chevre-cheesecake-pots-with-caramel.html"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Becks & Posh recipe</span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">)</span></i></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">8 oz fresh chèvre</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1/2 cup brown sugar</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1/2 cup crème fraîche</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">3 eggs</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Preheat oven to 350 F / 175 C.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Mix the chèvre and brown sugar until smooth. Stir in the crème fraîche, then add the eggs one by one, mixing in between each addition.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">With a ladle, pour batter into silicon muffin tins*. Bake for about 15-20 minutes, until the cheesecakes start to rise and swell. The outside should be well set, and the inside should still jiggle when the pan is shaked.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Remove from oven and let cool, then turn muffin pan over onto a plate to remove the cakes.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">*I use silicone muffin tins. I imagine that nonstick ones might work, but otherwise it could be easier to simply bake them in a small, muffin-sized vessel from which you could eat them directly, like a small ramekin.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Strawberry Coulis (recipe from </span><a href="http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/2005/05/strawberry_panna_cotta.php"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Chocolate & Zucchini)</span></a></i></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">250 grams strawberries</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1/4 cup sugar</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1 tbsp water</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Wash strawberries and cut off the green tops. Quarter them, and add to a saucepan with the water and sugar. Bring the ingredients to a simmer, then immediately turn off heat and throw it all in a blender. Blend to smooth, allow to cool.</span></div>Anniehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02009525176773786683noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4051475360843851210.post-82368982237245327442010-04-20T22:25:00.005+02:002010-07-06T14:12:55.805+02:00PIZZA-OFF, with café side-trips, and a Heartwarming Spaghetti Conclusion<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPxb9IxAy2yhqhdTMO3QvUOPV7umaXxnYpPSxUr69sbi-nd0mrdellMS9zvujyhnlOhKC0NX3qoAyIqJba1tHJIUP6aFr4Ke0yVG1JJZYFInWqs2tdXgscgyE48IJsWBGo4Dhl_M8NZqg/s1600/IMG_0827.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPxb9IxAy2yhqhdTMO3QvUOPV7umaXxnYpPSxUr69sbi-nd0mrdellMS9zvujyhnlOhKC0NX3qoAyIqJba1tHJIUP6aFr4Ke0yVG1JJZYFInWqs2tdXgscgyE48IJsWBGo4Dhl_M8NZqg/s400/IMG_0827.JPG" width="400" /></span></a></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
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<div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">We couldn't decide on what kind of pizza to make. Our differing pizza philosophies and sensibilities just couldn't seem to be reconciled. We should make a simple, traditional kind of pizza, was Clément's take. Let's go to the market on Sunday morning and throw whatever looks good onto dough, was my somewhat less strategic point of view. While debating in the line at the grocery store, store-bought pizza crust in tow, we decided that there was only way we could reach a decision.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">We would have to have a </span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Pizza-Off</span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">I of course immediately sprinted back to the refrigerated section to get another crust.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Sunday morning, we did our farmer's market shopping, and the two contenders were announced: </span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Three Cheese</span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> (C.) v. </span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Mediterranean Veggie</span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> (me). Let me tell you, it was on.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">We spent Sunday, the most beautiful Spring day we've had in Paris so far, each of us gloating about our certain victory as we strolled through the neighborhood, passing by the Parc de Belleville and stumbling across </span><b><a href="http://la.meraboire.com/"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">La Mer à Boire</span></a></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">, a café/bar located at the end of Rue des Envierges, a street that ends abruptly on the highest point of a hill which looks over the park, and all of Paris for that matter. The view was stunning, and I had no idea it existed! It's on the top of my Places to Get a Drink Outside This Spring/Summer list, but on this particular day we didn't stop our strolling.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">We ended up in another café along the Canal Saint-Martin, after an afternoon's walk. Clément had a beer, and I a </span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Diabolo Menthe</span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">. For those of you who may not be familiar with this very French concoction, it's French limonade (so the sweet, sparkly, light-on-the-lemon variety) with mint syrup, and on a warm, sunny day, it's just the thing. So refreshing! And so green...</span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjR7eR7zVwduXRV6k2MqxRoxsdlIPb-GbtYA38QjGJgv9trK02dbO9xBu3qWQN9As7_gIg9tj0jkG4HSSfc_0JzaQYKGDPjWzxKDoNOXfbhHHth8bzuv3z-0CUBVOqNIJl_LHClfli5w44/s1600/IMG_0797.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjR7eR7zVwduXRV6k2MqxRoxsdlIPb-GbtYA38QjGJgv9trK02dbO9xBu3qWQN9As7_gIg9tj0jkG4HSSfc_0JzaQYKGDPjWzxKDoNOXfbhHHth8bzuv3z-0CUBVOqNIJl_LHClfli5w44/s400/IMG_0797.JPG" width="400" /></span></a></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span><br />
<div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">And finally, we were home, armed with various veggies and cheeses, not to mention warriorlike determination, and the contest began. </span><br />
<a name='more'></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">We realized how small our kitchen is that night, as we had to take turns cooking down our tomatoes. But luckily, even when involved in full-on, all-out, bloodthirsty, balls-to-the-wall competition, we still like each other enough to share and take turns.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">And so, with an appropriately Italian soundtrack, and fierce concentration, we made our masterpieces:</span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhta7p5BXuwxDzOZ63w1ay9cRpioGylvGb-07U7HarpNnPPggNdw0yqFFmbsZUFqI271rmwytNSV47YgLA4H1jCkKOd4tiQwRdipspJ7eK_l6zbf_M9NCoDhUA7MpsRIqsLbLxI09Mgkqk/s1600/IMG_0822.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhta7p5BXuwxDzOZ63w1ay9cRpioGylvGb-07U7HarpNnPPggNdw0yqFFmbsZUFqI271rmwytNSV47YgLA4H1jCkKOd4tiQwRdipspJ7eK_l6zbf_M9NCoDhUA7MpsRIqsLbLxI09Mgkqk/s400/IMG_0822.JPG" width="400" /></span></a></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
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<div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Three Cheese Pizza with Fourme d'Ambert, St. Nectaire, and Tome de Chèvre. Tomato and onion Sauce.</span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0oXprAmwKenSYJdtmN02lebgMsQcugSGxWkZdgdW5ozLcd7UTIZ0lac0fow5AXaaHoExK4_j-snrsiy-_CcSJY00QdLeujBFcjzO8eOzUkoRbYL0p9KV4zQ185ArnB6qAKV1Lhv9m9Gw/s1600/IMG_0820.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0oXprAmwKenSYJdtmN02lebgMsQcugSGxWkZdgdW5ozLcd7UTIZ0lac0fow5AXaaHoExK4_j-snrsiy-_CcSJY00QdLeujBFcjzO8eOzUkoRbYL0p9KV4zQ185ArnB6qAKV1Lhv9m9Gw/s400/IMG_0820.JPG" width="400" /></span></a></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
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<div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Mediterranean Veggie with eggplant, zucchini, red onion, roasted tomatoes, roasted red peppers, chopped roasted garlic, diced preserved lemon peels, feta, and a sprinkling of fresh rosemary and Piment d'Espelette. Roasted red pepper and tomato sauce flavored with preserved lemon pulp.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">And then, it was time for the eating.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">My crust was undercooked, Clément's overcooked.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">My pizza's veggies fell off if the pizza was tilted. Clément's pizza's boiling cheese burned my mouth.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Clément got extra points for it being his first pizza ever, but then he got disqualified in the final moment because I found a hair in the last morsel of my last slice! HAHA! VICTORY!!</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Except he doesn't agree and he disqualified me for an overly American (read: way too much stuff on the pizza) approach to "Mediterranean," or to pizza at all, or to life, for that matter.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">So, we couldn't agree on who won.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">But then, Monday night, we mixed our leftover sauces together with the leftover tomatoes and some ground beef, and we had Compromise Spaghetti that was probably symbolic of love overcoming the ego, and stuff like that.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">But I tell you, victory was mine!!!</span></div>Anniehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02009525176773786683noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4051475360843851210.post-72038102390978204062010-04-17T19:48:00.005+02:002010-07-06T14:13:11.513+02:00Spiced Carrot and Onion "Khoresh Muffins"<div style="text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioEjx2zA3RkDUaNFZf2hEfIVcGO8UIxL5vKb24qYiZPEmUiC-EaVzex_iYR9u4Hchlz3NsAz8lIeGmV3nSh5SYudv2H8UYMNWOnBKU2AlX4C21T2hVNztKdzNpWeJVXsyn83a1x05dqHo/s1600/IMG_0770.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><img border="0" height="382" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioEjx2zA3RkDUaNFZf2hEfIVcGO8UIxL5vKb24qYiZPEmUiC-EaVzex_iYR9u4Hchlz3NsAz8lIeGmV3nSh5SYudv2H8UYMNWOnBKU2AlX4C21T2hVNztKdzNpWeJVXsyn83a1x05dqHo/s400/IMG_0770.JPG" width="400" /></span></a></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">So, the other night I was looking to make some lamb stew. Lamb stew sounded good. So I was looking around for recipes on the internet when I came across </span><a href="http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/2010/04/lamb_and_orange_khoresh_stew.php"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">this one</span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">: Lamb and Orange Khoresh, a Persian dish that looked quite worthy of trying. I followed the recipe perfectly except that I didn't add the orange flower water (completely forgot) and I put turmeric instead of the optional saffron. After an hour and a half of slow-cooking in my cast-iron Dutch oven later, the result was lovely. Extremely flavorful, and I loved the combination of orange and lamb with the turmeric, cinnamon, and green cardamom.</span></div></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Which brings me to now. Really, it does, the connection will be made apparent momentarily. Last night, I was, for whatever reason, dying to make cupcakes or muffins or some cake-like substance to put into my muffin tin (I have no other cake-baking vessel, but I accept that, as I like cupcakes and muffins). All of that led me to the question: WHAT is the difference between cupcakes and muffins? Is it the icing? I suppose it's because cupcakes are made with cake batter and muffins are made with more of a quick bread batter. But WHAT is the technical difference between, for example, pumpkin bread and pumpkin cake? Why is the world so confusing?</span></div></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">The internet gives me answers like "DUH ONE IS CAKE AND ONE IS BREAD" (very helpful) or "cake is richer and sweeter than quick bread," but my taste buds disagree. Think of banana bread. Isn't it in fact denser and sweeter than most cake? Imagine putting icing on it. All your teeth would instantly fall out. Plus, cake is usually airier, isn't it? WHY IS THIS QUESTION SO HARD TO ANSWER?</span></div></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">There's some interesting discussion about the whole matter </span><a href="http://www.davidlebovitz.com/archives/2007/09/banana_bread_or_1.html"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">here</span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">, and a tiny bit of incomprehensible technical explanation </span><a href="http://www.baking911.com/howto/how_baking_works.htm"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">here</span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">, should it actually interest you. Apparently it's a matter of crumb structure. Cakes tend to use flours with lower gluten content (cake flour), which imparts a more tender texture. Quick breads, however, tend to use higher gluten content flour (all-purpose flour), resulting in a denser texture. There's some other differences, like leavening agents in some cases, but I got bored reading about it. I think we'll just have to accept that there is logic behind the distinction, but at times the line is hard to draw (yeah, way to legitimize your crappy half-answer!)</span></div></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">So now is the part in the blog post where I explain why the Orange and Lamb Khoresh is relevant to the distinction between cake and quick bread. CUZ I MADE CARROT, ONION, CITRUS AND SPICE _______ (insert proper terminology here).</span></div></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span><br />
<a name='more'></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">So, with my leftover ingredients, which were two carrots and a yellow onion, spices, pistachios, and some citrus fruit, I set out to make an Orange and Lamb Khoresh inspired muffin/cake/bread. I decided that the model I wanted to follow was more one of a bread, as I was imagining a spicier, more savory (but still sweet) version of pumpkin bread with the pumpkin replaced by carrots and onion. So I followed the recipe for Pumpkin Bread in my Joy of Cooking, but with ample substitutions.</span></div></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Clément hates my muffins, but I don't take that too much to heart because he hates carrot cake, pumpkin pie, and anything where a vegetable is made sweet, especially if spices are added. I guess if anything, that's evidence that I was on the mark. I think they're tasty, but I may have slightly overdone the spices, so I've adjusted them in the recipe below to the quantity I think would be about perfect.</span></div></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">So without further ado,</span></div></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Spiced Carrot and Onion "Khoresh Muffins"</span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">, makes 12 muffins, or one 9 x 5-inch loaf pan if you go the bread route</span></div></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour</span></div></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1 teaspoon baking soda</span></div></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1/4 teaspoon baking powder</span></div></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1 1/2 teaspoons salt</span></div></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1 teaspoon ground cinnamon</span></div></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">3/4 teaspoon turmeric</span></div></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">3 or 4 pods of green cardamom, the shells removed and the seeds inside crushed with the blade of a knife</span></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">a couple ample dashes black pepper</span></div></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1/3 cup fresh-squeezed orange juice</span></div></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">juice of 1/2 lime</span></div></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1/2 teaspoon orange flower water</span></div></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">6 tablespoons butter, softened</span></div></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">3/4 cup white sugar</span></div></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1/4 cup brown sugar</span></div></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">2 large eggs</span></div></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">2 medium carrots</span></div></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1 small-to-medium yellow onion</span></div></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1/2 cup coarsely chopped unsalted pistachios</span></div></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Peel your carrots, wrap them in foil, and roast them in a hot oven. Chop your onion. In a small skillet on low heat, caramelize the onion in olive oil, stirring occasionally for 15-20 minutes. If the onion starts to brown, add a little water. When the carrots are cooked, remove them, and bring the oven down to 350 degrees Fahrenheit. Purée the caramelized onion and roasted carrots in a blender. The purée will be quite chunky. Set it aside.</span></div></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Mix the first group of ingredients listed, the dry ingredients, in a small bowl. Set aside.</span></div></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">In another small bowl, combine second group, the juices and the orange flower water.</span></div></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">In a large bowl, beat the next group, the butter and sugar, until fluffy. Then beat in the eggs one at a time. Add the carrot and onion purée.</span></div></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Incorporate the dry ingredients and the bowl of juices alternately, stirring well between additions. Fold in the chopped pistachios.</span></div></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Bake in muffin tins for 30 minutes, or until golden brown on top and a toothpick comes out clean.</span></div></div>Anniehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02009525176773786683noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4051475360843851210.post-49288514540771939372010-03-31T15:49:00.005+02:002010-07-06T14:13:27.382+02:00Big Veggies, Big Problems<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiraF7GMUu1uCQ74dJYtwvfAU7Lu7zafYVdrOXQt7DXnSuzBcdX8IFsSKqCvqKecRKlULIJHC0fnoe0B5nKYyRpGdXZJXvFudgrhx_zCvgCI0MdYPHuSG_lHb1_N4IYcTJaJ3qmYhgBEhc/s1600/IMG_0373.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><img border="0" height="338" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiraF7GMUu1uCQ74dJYtwvfAU7Lu7zafYVdrOXQt7DXnSuzBcdX8IFsSKqCvqKecRKlULIJHC0fnoe0B5nKYyRpGdXZJXvFudgrhx_zCvgCI0MdYPHuSG_lHb1_N4IYcTJaJ3qmYhgBEhc/s400/IMG_0373.JPG" width="400" /></span></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Problem 1</span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">: I think I got black pepper up my nose and I can't stop sneezing.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">So anyway, </span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">cabbage</span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> sounds like a good idea, right? Especially a nice, fresh-looking </span><a href="http://www.bonappetit.com/tipstools/ingredients/2008/04/savoy_cabbage"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Savoy cabbage</span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> with its seductively curly green leaves, waving to you flirtatiously in the vegetable market? And when you </span><a href="http://noteatingoutinny.com/2008/04/07/vegetarian-stuffed-cabbage/"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">read about cabbage</span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">, it sounds like such an underdog people's hero kind of vegetable, feeding the peasants, growing even when nothing else will grow. Plus you can cook it in plenty of different ways: braised, stuffed, stir-fried, in soup, raw in a salad, etc. etc. </span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">But thank god for this versatility because, bringing me to </span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Problem 2</span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">: A cabbage is a damn lot of cabbage.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">I bought this particular cabbage two days ago. I cooked it in white wine with apples, red onions, potatoes, and pork in my </span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">new Dutch oven</span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> (!!!!!!!!!). The next night, I made </span><a href="http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/2004/01/sauteed_ginger_beef_and_cabbage.php"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Sautéed </span></a><a href="http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/2004/01/sauteed_ginger_beef_and_cabbage.php"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Ginger Beef and Cabbage</span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">. Today at lunch, I ate my cabbage in count 'em not one but TWO dishes. We're going out of town at the end of the week, and we've still got a long road of cabbage ahead of us. The picture above is the "after" picture.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">But, since my English students keep cancelling their classes and I have leisurely, even endless, lunchbreaks, lunch today was an exercise in (1) eating cabbage, and (2) improving my food photography. Here are my results, and my recipes.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Cabbage Rib Salad with Creamy Miso Dressing</span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">, serves 2</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiySgkt7kencxGamgMgDwLsTryJqoUgs96wdp3ugEx9lftosoMl7gUmmIaqBNkwVSJTIQipEJ_gM1DP9OACPjQXiHAZtgdqz3mctkmvIYPrq9MP8IS9p0aBGzUQE5LB6TX2cvdBUPjaP5Y/s1600/IMG_0355.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiySgkt7kencxGamgMgDwLsTryJqoUgs96wdp3ugEx9lftosoMl7gUmmIaqBNkwVSJTIQipEJ_gM1DP9OACPjQXiHAZtgdqz3mctkmvIYPrq9MP8IS9p0aBGzUQE5LB6TX2cvdBUPjaP5Y/s400/IMG_0355.JPG" width="400" /></span></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">I used cabbage ribs. You could just use regular chopped cabbage, but this is one way to use up the thick, crunchy bits that you didn't want to sautée in your dinner from the night before.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Salad</span></i></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1 tablespoon finely chopped shallot</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1 heaping cup chopped cabbage ribs</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">sesame seeds for garnish</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Dressing</span></i></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1 teaspoon saké, soju, or other rice alcohol of about that strength (mine is 20%)</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1/3 teaspoon miso paste</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1/2 teaspoon sesame oil</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1 teaspoon rice vinegar</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1 teaspoon plain yogurt, crème fraîche, or sour cream</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Place ribs on a plate, sprinkle shallot overtop. In a small dish, mix the dressing ingredients, then drizzle over salad. Sprinkle with sesame seeds.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Quinoa with Apples, Potatoes, Red Onions, and Cabbage, </span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">serves any number of people</span><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf38kLK0Yf8-Wp0JLXWLlRMRhLkJmzHcxsqxJU4geZlc872balKTerPC9pPdF4T_EFyQ6ohqdWsAbMEm-HF6H70aLeq46jom1Oh5K-BFh-DuEPTWmnSv9tNL7vBARpe5iRsNHH2HhBG9c/s1600/IMG_0370.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf38kLK0Yf8-Wp0JLXWLlRMRhLkJmzHcxsqxJU4geZlc872balKTerPC9pPdF4T_EFyQ6ohqdWsAbMEm-HF6H70aLeq46jom1Oh5K-BFh-DuEPTWmnSv9tNL7vBARpe5iRsNHH2HhBG9c/s400/IMG_0370.JPG" width="400" /></span></a></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
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<div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">This recipe is um, a bit looser, since as I mentioned it's mostly leftovers. But cooking approximately equal amounts of potatoes, apple, and red onion with some cabbage and pork in about an inch of dry white wine with ample salt and pepper in a Dutch oven for about an hour and a half yields a fruit/vegetable/meat-juice mixture whose leftovers are nice served over quinoa. Mine is actually half quinoa, half bulgur wheat, but who's counting?</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">So that's my cabbage story. The moral: avoid big vegetables before big trips. Oh, and I'll let you guess </span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Problem 3</span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">.</span></div>Anniehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02009525176773786683noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4051475360843851210.post-71937001434183978522010-03-30T00:08:00.001+02:002010-07-06T14:13:41.539+02:00Everybody loves... MASHED POTATOES<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_WPYtBHYMew-l1Asa_82BspNRhuGTy7BqnCJqcxZ1sVdrZveFq-X5_Fy5xtS7Rc-tpdpFdE9SPN98uGRjZTRjsktOSnfLYIYBSy840u-zMs6HNmN3ZD3EdoSLUy5gk2RRu5tRU-J3308/s1600/chipo.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><img border="0" height="276" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_WPYtBHYMew-l1Asa_82BspNRhuGTy7BqnCJqcxZ1sVdrZveFq-X5_Fy5xtS7Rc-tpdpFdE9SPN98uGRjZTRjsktOSnfLYIYBSy840u-zMs6HNmN3ZD3EdoSLUy5gk2RRu5tRU-J3308/s400/chipo.JPG" width="400" /></span></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">It's true. Everyone loves them. I've decided to start a feature on my blog where I take classic, everyday sort of foods that everybody loves and make them maximally delicious, either through my own cunning and genius, or through that of someone else. Today, it's sort of both. OK mostly the latter, but I had to get in the last word/ingredient. Today we're making mashed potatoes with JOEL ROBUCHON!!! *applause*</span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
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<div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">The principle behind Joël's recipe is basically </span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">butter</span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">. I've essentially learned that in cooking, if you want to make something maximally delicious, what you have to do is have the courage to add much more butter than you think is a good idea. Example: Grilled cheese. When I make grilled cheese, it's pretty good. When my boyfriend Clément makes grilled cheese, it's amazing. And do you know why? Because Clément is not afraid of butter. I have to admit I'm a little afraid. So I let Clément make the grilled cheese, I don't watch, and I enjoy them without ever knowing the quantity of butter I am actually consuming.</span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span><br />
<div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Same thing with MASHED POTATOES. Except I can successfully make those, thanks to Joël.</span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span><br />
<div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">The other secret to perfect mashed potatoes is using </span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">the perfect potatoes</span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">, a concept I briefly discussed </span><a href="http://pastisandpeanutbutter.blogspot.com/2010/03/vegetables-adventure-i-part-ii-pork.html"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">in my last post</span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> and which has recently changed my life. We used Bintje potatoes for their high starch content. Known as a "floury" or "mealy" potato, it's ideal for dishes where it is supposed to fall apart, be smashed, etc. North American potatoes that fit the bill are Idaho and Russet. Potatoes that you want to hold their form, such as for making potato salads, are known as "firm" or "waxy" potatoes, and their lower starch content makes them hold up better during cooking. Charlotte, BF15, Yukon, Red, and Fingerling are all examples.</span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
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<div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">So, to summarize, butter makes everything more delicious, and more butter makes it even more delicious; and, using the right potato for your dish is a revelation that will change your potato-cooking life, if it hasn't already.</span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoVF67CH217H9pF6_uf5AGgReIrWe-SyF54rWGd_xDaPFmdEMcCyT2JF1LIl3XzZMQUrvhoughNkpLQDShRTq1uwwN6KCv6Tr-uo0o_t9qVe-QV9HyiRChdBakA85OCq9t4Rpq-hm-8vo/s1600/chicken.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><img border="0" height="223" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoVF67CH217H9pF6_uf5AGgReIrWe-SyF54rWGd_xDaPFmdEMcCyT2JF1LIl3XzZMQUrvhoughNkpLQDShRTq1uwwN6KCv6Tr-uo0o_t9qVe-QV9HyiRChdBakA85OCq9t4Rpq-hm-8vo/s400/chicken.JPG" width="400" /></span></a></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span><br />
<div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Pictured at the beginning of post, Chipolatas (homemade from </span><a href="http://maps.google.com/maps?client=safari&oe=UTF-8&ie=UTF8&q=boucherie&fb=1&hq=boucherie&hnear=Place+Edith+Piaf,+75020+Paris,+France&ei=OiWxS4TxDZHN4gaRh-3iDw&ved=0CBwQtgMwAA&hl=en&cd=1&geocode=FaKe6QIddbMkAA&sll=37.0625,-95.677068&sspn=23.875,57.630033&ll=48.867114,2.405083&spn=0.007072,0.015471&z=16&iwloc=A&cid=4658057603463836091"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Boucherie Risch et Cie Sté</span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">, 3 rue du Capitaine Ferber 75020 Paris) and mashed potatoes; pictured here, Tunisian-spiced pan-fried chicken, roasted carrots, salad with lemon yogurt dressing, and... mashed potatoes. Leftovers, what can I say.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
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<a name='more'></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Without any more ado, on to Joël:</span><br />
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">PUREE DE POMMES DE TERRE</span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> (adapted but mostly just translated/converted from </span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Tout Robuchon</span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">), serves 6</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">2.2 pounds potatoes, i.e. 1 kilo (Russet, Yukon gold, Bintje)</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1 cup very cold butter</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1 cup milk</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">salt, pepper</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Wash potatoes, do not peel. Put them in a pot with 2 quarts of cold water and one tablespoon kosher salt. cook them on high heat, covered, until a knife can pierce them easily (about 25 minutes).[Note: leaving them in the boiling water for longer will cause them to fall apart]</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">While they are cooking, cut the butter in small cubes, then put it back in the fridge.</span><br />
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</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">When the potatoes are cooked, drain them. Peel them while still warm and pass them through a vegetable ricer (as fine as possible). If you don't have a vegetable ricer, a sieve will do fine. And if you don't have/feel like using a sieve, just mash them with a fork (they'll be lumpier, but still good). Put the potatoes in a pot. Heat the pot to medium heat, drying the puree a bit by stirring it with a spatula for about 5 minutes.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Meanwhile, wet a small saucepan with water, pour out the water but do not dry it. Add the milk and bring it to a boil. As the milk is heating, turn the potatoes down to low heat, and add the cold butter cubes to the potatoes little by little, stirring constantly. The mixture should thicken and become slick and unctuous (Joël said so).</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Still on low heat, add the hot milk little by little, stirring vigorously until completely absorbed. Taste, season with salt and pepper.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">BONUS: Add a rounded tablespoon of apple cider vinegar (I said so).</span></div>Anniehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02009525176773786683noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4051475360843851210.post-37590124382925510382010-03-23T11:06:00.002+01:002010-07-06T14:14:35.208+02:00Vegetable Adventures I, Part II: Pork Chops with Celery Root Sauce, Hashbrowns and Onion-Apple Compote<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFR720Wgc46XHzgPMJfiGZmcxNlFdAG2ikKuhysnUDswKL5LiutS8uNZz_2eFvcpU4kxG5YChw1C-TfMgA3R3BqOTgenTk7susTfL-vEvltsILZZKzIwVp06LRrQ27KvaAUV5AHmSf4QQ/s1600-h/IMG_0036.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5451772226992519154" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFR720Wgc46XHzgPMJfiGZmcxNlFdAG2ikKuhysnUDswKL5LiutS8uNZz_2eFvcpU4kxG5YChw1C-TfMgA3R3BqOTgenTk7susTfL-vEvltsILZZKzIwVp06LRrQ27KvaAUV5AHmSf4QQ/s400/IMG_0036.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 300px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; margin-top: 0px; text-align: justify; width: 400px;" /></a><br />
<div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">So, leftover celery root soup in my fridge was destined to become sauce on my plate. But sauce on what, you may ask? But you didn't really ask that, because you saw the photo and the title of this post. Very clever.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span> </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Anyway, I started off brainstorming with </span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">scallops</span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">. The idea of tender seared scallops with celery root sauce was making my mouth water. Then I thought about vegetables. I googled around to find some inspiration, but I ended up deciding on hashbrown potatoes. I thought a couple hashbrowns, some seared scallops, and some celery root sauce sounded like a fun dinner. But then I came home late and the fish market, which is not on my way home, seemed awfully far for something that was probably closed, plus Clément isn't a big seafood fan. Plus scallops are expensive. So I went with pork chops.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span> </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">I wanted a little element of zing in the dish, as well, and while the dish appears visually to be a lot of stuff piled on top of other stuff, I really felt like all the parts worked well together. (All this in defense of my compote) The onion-apple compote was actually my favorite part, I think. And I liked the idea of </span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">revisited pork chops and apple sauce</span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">. The dish would even work well without the celery root sauce, but it was good too, and don't tell it I said that.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span> </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">And so our dinner was born. And we ate it all, and licked the plate. Clément, who hadn't been a huge fan of the celery root soup, loved it as a sauce. Me too, but in fact I finished the leftover soup a couple of days later, and with a touch of heavy cream, I actually found it delicious. I think that means Vegetable Adventure I was a success. </span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span> </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">I know now that celery root blends to a beautifully </span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">creamy consistency</span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> for soups and sauces, has a pronounced celery flavor, and pairs well with </span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">lemon</span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">, </span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">nutmeg</span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">, and </span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">apple</span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">. </span><a href="http://beyondsalmon.blogspot.com/2009/10/vegetable-sauces.html"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Another blog</span></b></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> suggests </span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">vanilla bean</span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> as a pairing, and having explored this vegetable myself, I can concur that that would be fantastic. Celery root has a slightly sweet note to it where vanilla bean would chime right in. </span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span> <br />
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</span> </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">So, here are my recipes:</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span> </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Onion-Apple Compote</span></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span> </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1 onion</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1 apple (of same size)</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1-2 tbsp apple cider vinegar</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1 heaping tsp mustard</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1 tsp maple syrup</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">olive oil</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span> </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Heat olive oil in a skillet to medium heat, add chopped onion and apple, and turn heat down to low. Cover, and cook stirring occasionally until caramelized. Add vinegar, mustard, and syrup, and continue cooking while stirring for several minutes more.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span> </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">This compote was great on pork chops, and we used leftovers on homemade burgers the next day, and it was equally great.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span> </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Hash Browns</span></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span> </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">I'd always heard that the secret to good hash browns was removing as much water as possible. It's true that this is very important, but I'm here to tell you that the two other most important things about making good hash brown are (1) USING THE RIGHT POTATOES, and (2) USING THE RIGHT HEAT AND RIGHT QUANTITY OF OIL. These two things will make your hash browns. Use potatoes with firm, waxy flesh which are ideal for frying. I used Charlotte potatoes, and they work like a dream. I also cooked them at a fairly high heat (medium-high) and in about 1/4-1/2 inch of sunflower oil. If the heat is too low, they'll drink the oil instead of frying, and if there's too little oil, they won't fry properly.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span> </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Potatoes (whatever quantity desired)</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Oil for frying</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Salt and pepper</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span> </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Peel and grate your potatoes. Take handfuls of the potato gratings over a strainer in the sink and squeeze as much water out of each handful as you can, separating the squeezed handfuls from the non-squeezed ones. Once you've squeezed them all, put them all in the strainer and squeeze some more. Dry them with paper towels, set aside.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span> </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Heat about 1/4-1/2 inch of oil in a stainless steel skillet to medium-high. When it's hot, add a handful of grated potato, and flatten and shape it it with a wooden spoon into a little circular galette. Add as many handfuls as can comfortably fit in your pan at a time. When you notice browning around the edges, flip the hash browns. They should be browned and crispy. Cook on the other side until the same occurs. Place on paper towels (which absorb the extra grease so your potatoes don't have to, keeping them crispy), season liberally with salt and pepper.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span> </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Pork Chops</span></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span> </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">I've never known much about cooking meat, being that I was a vegetarian for quite some time and not a big meat-cooker even afterwards. But now I'm learning all sorts of things. My most recent lesson: </span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">cover your pork chops in flour, salt, pepper</span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> (and spices if you like), and </span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">then</span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> cook them in your skillet. You'll get a beautiful golden-brown crust. So I heated enough oil to very thickly coat (1/4 inch depth?) the bottom of a stainless steel pan, put in my pork chops when it was hot, and cooked them on medium heat until they were done (unfortunately I didn't time it, but it felt long... 15 or 20 minutes?). They were golden and crispy on the outside, and cooked through on the inside.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span> </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Celery Root Sauce</span></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span> </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">This is the easiest part. I took my soup, heated it and let it thicken up a bit, and that is all.</span></div>Anniehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02009525176773786683noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4051475360843851210.post-70890114896406200842010-03-18T20:48:00.002+01:002010-07-06T14:14:15.852+02:00Vegetable Adventures I: Celery Root Soup with Toasted Pine Nuts<div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg00jH90ZLy7LI1J4J7BdWa46qTywabfuscNRdDYoGnqmB403X8G5UgUAiBb4Sovu_Ed0whvv5bulaeJ-TbkwT539KfYTmfc4XSveSWLggDG2MJhaFVjJVvSFdky_q4jY3aHWxFQQr3mfY/s1600-h/IMG_0008.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5450084195084784546" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg00jH90ZLy7LI1J4J7BdWa46qTywabfuscNRdDYoGnqmB403X8G5UgUAiBb4Sovu_Ed0whvv5bulaeJ-TbkwT539KfYTmfc4XSveSWLggDG2MJhaFVjJVvSFdky_q4jY3aHWxFQQr3mfY/s400/IMG_0008.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 300px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; margin-top: 0px; text-align: justify; width: 400px;" /></a><br />
<div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Long live the blender! Aaaand, Clément's new camera!! (get a load of that image quality)</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">It's my current fascination to explore seasonal vegetables in an in-depth fashion. I want to know the texture they can give to a soup, the taste they have when by themselves. I'd like to understand exactly what kind of pairings and combinations are possible, and figure out exactly what I can do with the vegetables in question. My method is therefore to explore them through soup, using leftover soup as a sauce for meat, fish, etc. So, the first vegetable (or second, if you count the roasted peppers) that I attempted to comprehend was: celery root!</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">I had never done anything with celery root before a little over a month ago, when I caramelized it with other root vegetables to eat with Tunisian-spiced chicken. I realized at that moment that I really like it. This time I brought a brain-sized one, struggled to cut it up into chunks with my somewhat lackluster knife set (one day I'll have nice knives...), peeled it, and simmered it in some homemade chicken broth I had made the day before. I added sautéed shallots, then puréed everything. I seasoned with salt and pepper, tasted, and it was still missing something. I looked around a little on the internet for inspiration, and decided on lemon juice, which helped a lot. Then I remembered I had some pine nuts in the cupboard, which I toasted, and sprinkled on the soup with a dollop of crème fraîche and a dusting of nutmeg. It was not bad. It had a serious celery flavor, and the addition of some citrus and some nutty crunch was a nice complement. I honestly really enjoyed eating it. But I have to admit, today I used the leftovers as a sauce for some pork chops with hashbrowns and an apple-onion compote, and it was much better in this context. But that's another post...</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span><br />
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</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">For the moment, the recipe:</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Simple Celery Root Soup</span></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1 celery root the size of a small child's head (or numerous smaller ones, until you achieve a quantity that ressembles a small child's head)</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">chicken or vegetable broth</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">2-3 medium-to-large shallots</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">olive oil</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">juice of 1/2 small lemon</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">little handful of pine nuts (eyeball it to taste)</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">salt, pepper, nutmeg</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">crème fraîche</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Chop up celery root into chunks, and peel them. Simmer in broth until tender. Meanwhile, sweat shallots in a dousing of olive oil over medium heat, and toast pine nuts in an ungreased skillet over medium heat until browned around the edges, setting the latter aside. Add broth with celery root and shallots to a blender, purée. Add lemon juice, and water if your soup is too thick. Season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg to taste; stir. Put back on stove, bring just to a boil, then cut off heat. Serve with a dollop of crème fraîche and a sprinkling of pine nuts and additional nutmeg.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; color: #0000ee;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5450100919456233746" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRwamhmIyALCocaHSBrhf620IBvnbQ4-6bWkgvYw633q8zTOONLaxy6TCdXcJcy3CBcNqc93rQTCAM5YxK66tDXuaRknbsaQrqV4mwkrVg3OF6KrMExJsYme95pxhEEbLMas8gKmzH8Us/s400/IMG_0007.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 300px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; margin-top: 0px; text-align: justify; width: 400px;" /></span></div>Anniehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02009525176773786683noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4051475360843851210.post-6974832741144758972010-03-14T15:44:00.001+01:002010-07-06T14:14:51.888+02:00Poached Salmon Eggs Benedict<div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBAN7AayoV_qGlX5z_gOvs35tYiex99Nqp1m4mWY1RbHlCzZaJ1mtJGtkSA_ej1NDqLZbHZ5ab34W6h-RNtCJKakeN2VSwVEeAPWdbTeUcdLs-U4cLsl0Z7HxZiRmfuJiZxmdGPfdQFJw/s1600-h/Photo+137.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5448573332312419634" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBAN7AayoV_qGlX5z_gOvs35tYiex99Nqp1m4mWY1RbHlCzZaJ1mtJGtkSA_ej1NDqLZbHZ5ab34W6h-RNtCJKakeN2VSwVEeAPWdbTeUcdLs-U4cLsl0Z7HxZiRmfuJiZxmdGPfdQFJw/s400/Photo+137.jpg" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 240px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 320px;" /></a><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaJDKIizulEWpcQ-BO0iPX3gvN-6GSaD3ZRxc7AVg0G_YPHsjOw8xIm6xgfjsXRq0G94b4nMQp1hVNL2PKoyskQtnU9USekevx0JJNdwiD0FhIJt81TfPRpgejcCsou1U6Elf6AJliZrk/s1600-h/Photo+135.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"></a></span><br />
<div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">"What should we eat for lunch today?" Clément asked, in the middle of our Sunday morning coffee-and-farmer's-market-grocery-list ritual.</span></div><div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">After a bit of fridge inventory, the answer appeared to be eggs. But eggs how? Eggs with salmon, Clément suggested. I love this combination, but we've already done scrambled eggs with smoked salmon several times, and I was in the mood for something different. We could bake the salmon and have a spinach salad with a poached egg, I offered. Maybe we could even try hollandaise sauce.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">That was it. Hollandaise sauce!!! Lunch would be eggs benedict.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">A few errands later, we had two salmon filets, lots of butter, fresh parsley, and some bread. I chose something my local bakery calls </span><i><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">pain des prés</span></b></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">, or "prairie bread." I wasn't familiar with it, but the size and texture looked perfect. And indeed, when I cut it open, the inside was soft and would nicely absorb the sauce, but the crust was flaky, crisp, and substantial, and would keep the dish from turning out all spongy. Its interior also contained some slightly crunchy whole grains, which added a little extra something.</span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC4b0b1Cki8NcZGNbk4vqjktC6uyVF9XhlyeNb9H1G3gSbdw7XCcJo_n5n8q-cAEKtwpwT_PU5PzMetoxY1v_4FL2OhZLvBhNh1jnK2M5b44jWvbumqMwg-acDitnqe1MLJMnOhg7T5dw/s1600-h/Photo+139.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"></a></span><br />
<div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span><br />
<a name='more'></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">I am proud to announce that my first attempt at hollandaise sauce was a big success! After looking at Joël Robuchon's version, I was intimidated. All this double boiler, clarified butter, see page 82 kind of talk. So I looked up </span><a href="http://www.recipezaar.com/Julia-Childs-Hollandaise-Sauce-251332"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Julia Child's recipe</span></b></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">, and it didn't disappoint. Simple and well-explained, it guided me through the whole process. Other than spilling some on myself while stirring, there were no disasters! I would even say it was easy, and I will definitely be doing it again (and again and again).</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">I simmered the salmon for several minutes in a court bouillon of parsley stems, onion, and lemon slices, then removed it from the heat to allow it to keep cooking in the hot water, leaving it just barely done in the center. Then I drained it.</span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv1cNwnvLsel9e93OdbLPanBTMwR-QlwLHbmC9SDGtcD-QAmRA55u7MXBrST0cxHVkcx_jNDqM3yTOg6naXn_Sku61fVYKI7bvOwOzddyxrDNgmzMg1hH2MeS7lpmTgc1PhyphenhyphenaIcD4EaW4/s1600-h/Photo+135.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5448573651902803074" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv1cNwnvLsel9e93OdbLPanBTMwR-QlwLHbmC9SDGtcD-QAmRA55u7MXBrST0cxHVkcx_jNDqM3yTOg6naXn_Sku61fVYKI7bvOwOzddyxrDNgmzMg1hH2MeS7lpmTgc1PhyphenhyphenaIcD4EaW4/s400/Photo+135.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; height: 240px; width: 320px;" /></span></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">I poached the eggs in water with vinegar, and I tried </span><a href="http://beyondsalmon.blogspot.com/2009/07/one-perfect-poached-egg.html"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">the swirling the water technique</span></b></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">, and even using a huge pot, but my poached eggs always turn out ugly. So, I just suck up my pride, wind their spindly white bits around them, and drain them briefly on paper towels. It still tastes good. Plus, they get covered with sauce in this dish anyway.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">I assembled all the parts on the toasted bread with some chopped parsley, and this is what I got.</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; color: #0000ee;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5448574257235793570" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQp4d8uYkdOzYDIY9-vjydavEu90m_0h_Ak1MfG6P42jfQMf-RGMWY0L2v6EMzyE1rlrqhj8_aEc73XxPfhZRTyhJDq2cA4x2U26pBvcWGx2ZZdOZ2k_y2hgMVABoKGmNLMlOD9B-1sRE/s400/Photo+139.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 240px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center; width: 320px;" /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">The yolks were nicely runny, the salmon just cooked, the sauce fantastic, if I do say so myself. It made for one whopping serving of eggs benedict (I even made two poached eggs per person, to have enough runny yolk or the whole dish). But we cleaned our plates.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Now we just have to figure out to do with the extra sauce...</span></div></div></div></div>Anniehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02009525176773786683noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4051475360843851210.post-82616818132518253612010-03-12T15:18:00.002+01:002010-07-06T14:15:10.460+02:00The Things We Did and Didn't Do, the Former Being Pumpkin Fried Rice<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiH2I4Sj3kqVEhVAZLKb-7l4Ar8HC_aLmwku8wAZ3lgqkDTGBSOWu_H_6Ls-Oby4Pv5tgoiWNCHqvfd_XwVGsC2GF9YplhyphenhyphenLy_j7RmiggRWXzxYavDZb9nbPn5DX-zeWEQ0F8iJKGHwZA0/s1600-h/Photo+132.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5448576660908485074" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiH2I4Sj3kqVEhVAZLKb-7l4Ar8HC_aLmwku8wAZ3lgqkDTGBSOWu_H_6Ls-Oby4Pv5tgoiWNCHqvfd_XwVGsC2GF9YplhyphenhyphenLy_j7RmiggRWXzxYavDZb9nbPn5DX-zeWEQ0F8iJKGHwZA0/s400/Photo+132.jpg" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 264px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 320px;" /></a><br />
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</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">In life, we are bound to have regrets. Using my leftover pumpkin from the pizza in my last post is not one of them. Forgetting to photo-document the show-stopping spread I cranked out last night, however, is.</span></div><div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">So, first about the spread in question. The menu was:</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Savory Cheese and Thyme Shortbread with Fleur de Sel</span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">, with the apéro</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Seared Glazed Duck Breasts with Garlic-Roasted Carrots and Salad</span></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Mini Chèvre Cheesecakes with Caramelized Pear Sauce and Fried Ginger</span></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">And I have not a single photo. So, let me describe. The shortbread cookies, or sablés as they call them here, had a delicate, buttery texture, with a little crunch from the grated parmesan, and the subtly floral, woody aroma of fresh thyme. They were perfectly salted, which has been my great battle in concocting this recipe (solution: use salted butter, and sprinkle a little Fleur de Sel on top of the cut cookies, rather than adding salt to the dough--you can't go wrong). Only complaint: the first time I attempted this recipe, I used big kosher salt, but too much, and I baked them at too cool a temperature, which made me have to bake them longer than I meant to. However, the crunch from the salt together with the slight crispness the longer baking time, plus I think a little more Emmental than this attempt, made a PERFECT TEXTURE. Seriously, the texture was unreal. Too bad they were too salty. Clément said they would take care of the humidity problem in the apartment. Ha ha. This time the salt was perfect, but the texture was a little too light and dry for me. Once I get them completely perfect, I'll be sure to post about them.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">The duck was a homerun this time, thanks to </span><a href="http://beyondsalmon.blogspot.com/2007/11/seared-and-glazed-duck-breasts.html"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">these very clear instructions</span></b></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">, as well as my own learning of the lesson that despite the fact the above recipe says to glaze immediately upon turning the breasts in the pan, YOU SHOULD NOT. The glaze warms up and dribbles down into the hot pan and burns, which is no fun for anyone. Rather, I glazed right after removing the breasts from the skillet, at resting time, and this time it went off without a hitch.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">The cheesecake was a dream, if I do say so myself. I used </span><a href="http://becksposhnosh.blogspot.com/2005/03/chevre-cheesecake-pots-with-caramel.html"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">this basic chèvre cheesecake recipe</span></b></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">, but I didn't cook them in a bain marie, rather just cooking them in my silicon muffin pan. I also cooked them longer than the recipe suggested, so they could stand on their own, since this recipe was designed for little pots, and I wanted something firmer and freestanding. Then I just simmered pears in butter for a long time with a touch of honey until they were soft and sugary and I got a nice syrup. Then I added some lemon juice and zest to the pears for acidity, and voilà. I also discovered that frying ginger is a delicious idea, and it added a nice little crunch. I just have to practice my technique, it came out a tad overfried (read: we had some blackage). </span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">But, alas, no pictures.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">What I do have a picture of his today's lunch, so I'll talk about that now.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span><br />
<a name='more'></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">So I have this bone to pick with fried rice. I know you're supposed to use cooled rice that was ideally made a day beforehand, because otherwise your fried rice is too smooshy, blah blah. But I LIKE my fried rice smooshy. What's wrong with smooshy? Some of the best foods are smooshy. </span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">[How many times do you think I can use the word "smooshy" in this post?]</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Anyway, I just hate fried rice that's dry, it kills my buzz. In my book, dry is a million times worse than smooshy. So, I never heed that little piece of advice. Instead, I make my rice on the spot, set it aside as I prepare the trimmings, and then put it right back on the heat. And guess what else! I use STICKY RICE, so it's even smooshier!! Sometimes I even don't cook the egg all the way, so that it will be extra wet and smooshy. Take that, conventional fried rice wisdom. I think my take on fried rice is more like a skillet version of </span><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bibimbap"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">dolsot bibimbap</span></b></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">. And as with a good hot bibimbap, it can sometimes be nice to overcook your smooshy fried rice on the bottom, so you get that crispy, browned skin to eat as well.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Today I sautéed shallots, garlic, and lots of diced ginger in some grapeseed oil, then added about a cup of cooked pumpkin, and one diced hot red pepper. I added an egg and my small bowl of cooked sticky rice, mixed it all around on medium heat, then seasoned with a dash of rice vinegar, a splash of sesame oil, and a generous smattering of soy sauce. I stirred it around a bit more, and then I ate it. It was nice and smooshy, and the ginger was crisp, and with a glass of lager-style beer, I had a lovely lunch that was everything I hoped it'd be.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">[Answer: 10 times.]</span></div></div>Anniehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02009525176773786683noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4051475360843851210.post-79073881362001353962010-03-08T21:05:00.002+01:002010-07-06T14:15:27.687+02:00Roasted Red Pepper Soup, Pumpkin & Blue Cheese Pizza<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJZk739G4nHOAnLT_nPWm7IyJaxDZe5_zQKO6Hf9JQjc9E8lfeQl3r7NCrYXM0ZjHDAL7RWf9vzJl5IuHaR1D51_kViFTLa7N6B-U-RNI3cs6NadNGCxUjE-iGxDpgSC2-DhCM0Nd6T30/s1600-h/Photo+130.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5448576877002449506" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJZk739G4nHOAnLT_nPWm7IyJaxDZe5_zQKO6Hf9JQjc9E8lfeQl3r7NCrYXM0ZjHDAL7RWf9vzJl5IuHaR1D51_kViFTLa7N6B-U-RNI3cs6NadNGCxUjE-iGxDpgSC2-DhCM0Nd6T30/s400/Photo+130.jpg" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 240px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 320px;" /></a><br />
<div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Since I'm just starting to write this blog, I forgot to take a picture before we ate our soup. Also, I don't have a digital camera because I sold it a few months ago, so I took this photo with my computer... In short, my visuals are disastrous. But please, forgive me, and trust that my pizza was not actually pixelated.</span></div><div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">What it was, though, was rather successful, especially for toaster oven material, as I have no Real Oven (You may be noticing a pattern here in my relationship to technology). Well, welcome to my life! I mean that, too, not in a bitter sarcastic kind of way. I'm glad I sold my digital camera! And I love my toaster oven! And really, welcome to my life.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">We, my boyfriend Clément and I, just moved into a new apartment that has a toaster oven and a real live gas stove, not to mention a lot more workspace--a huge step up from the last one, where we had only hotplates, and where we cut our vegetables on the computer desk. We became old hats at </span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">poule au pot</span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">,</span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> pot au feu</span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">, and </span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">soupe du marché</span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">. Then came the pivotal event of buying </span><i><b><a href="http://www.amazon.fr/Tout-Robuchon-Jo%C3%ABl/dp/2262027161/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1268146455&sr=8-1"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Tout Robuchon</span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span></b></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">and learning all those little skills I'd never picked up - when exactly to salt the meat, how to know which species of garlic is in season, how to make </span><b><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aligot"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">aligot</span></a></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> (!), etc.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">I profess no form of culinary expertise, but I do have my curiosity and my appetite to offer you, Reader, as well as a sound confidence that I know delicious when I eat it. I may not always achieve it, Dear Reader, but that's not what it's about, now is it?</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Anyway, back to my dinner. Back in my vegetarian days, I remember loving </span><a href="http://www.amys.com/products/category_view.php?prod_category=3"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Amy's Roasted Vegetable No Cheese Pizza</span></b></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> because of that delicious, sweet sauce that I couldn't identify at the time. I now recognize it as probably caramelized onions and reduced balsamic vinegar, so that was the inspiration for tonight's meal. That, and with a a toaster oven, I can roast peppers (!) and make pizza (!).</span><br />
<a name='more'></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">So here is what I made:</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Roasted Red Pepper Soup</span></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Serves 4</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">3 large red bell peppers</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1 yellow onion, chopped</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1-2 garlic cloves</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1 medium-to-large potato</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">chicken or vegetable broth</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">heavy cream</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Place peppers and garlic (unpeeled) in hot oven (220ºC, 425ºF-ish). Keep them there until the peppers' skins are wrinkly and blackened, 30-40 minutes, turning the peppers occasionally to allow all sides to roast.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Bring water to boil in a small pot, and place potato inside. Keep it there until it's soft.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Meanwhile, sweat onions in olive oil and/or butter on medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, until they are soft and translucent.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">When the peppers are done, remove them from the oven and allow them to cool enough that you can touch them. It's best to put them in a paper bag at this point, but you can do without. Once they've sat and cooled, peel off their skins and rid them of their seeds. Peel off the garlic's skins, as well. </span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">In a blender or food processor, blend ingredients until chunks disappear and you have a lovely, creamy soup, adding a bit of broth to each blenderful. Put it on the stove and bring it to a boil to make sure everything is well-incorporated, and hot. Stir in heavy cream to your liking, I probably added about half a cup. Season to taste (I added a tiny splash of red wine vinegar, as well).</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Pumpkin and Blue Cheese Pizza</span></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Serves 2 as entire meal, 4 if you want just a slice (if eating with soup, for example)</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">4-6 large shallots</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">olive oil</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1 teaspoon white sugar</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1 chunk of pumpkin, or small winter squash, or anything of this nature</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">enough blue cheese to crumble on top (think: a small wedge)</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">pizza crust (I bought mine... it was about 10" across)</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">black pepper</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">fresh thyme</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Cut squash or pumpkin into big chunks, I used 4" by 4" squares. Put the chunks into a pot that has a tightly-closing lid, and add enough water so there is about an inch to an inch and a half of liquid. Close the lid, boil. Check on it every several minutes, cook until soft. Remove skin, cut flesh into very small chunks.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">In the meantime, heat a skillet to medium heat, add olive oil and shallots and lower heat to medium-low. Stirring occasionally, allow onions to caramelize by cooking them a good 10 or 15 minutes. Add a liberal dose (a big spoonful or so) of balsamic vinegar and a teaspoon of white sugar. Turn up heat a bit, to medium, and continue to cook stirring constantly until sugar has dissolved and balsamic vinegar has reduced a bit.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Coat your pizza crust in olive oil, then smear on your balsamic-onion mixture. Cover it with the squash/pumpkin, smearing it around a bit as well. Crumble blue cheese over it all, season with black pepper and thyme, bake for about 30 minutes at 200ºC/375ºF.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Voilà!</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div></div>Anniehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02009525176773786683noreply@blogger.com0